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Subject:Re: Why my rear axle nuts got loose
From:Frank Condelli
Date:Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:21:29 EDT

In a message dated 24/06/2010 12:01:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

        MJ. the bearings are not  expensive.  See here > _Vanagon New
Parts_ (http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  under "Wheel  Bearings" heading.
The rear wheel bearings can only be changed by removing  the hub bearing
carrier.  The bearings must be pressed out the side where  the CV is bolted to
the stub axle, so you had better replace them both and make  sure the spacer
is of the correct length listed on my website I just mentioned  to you.
Also, read the following I wrote for the LiMBO newsleter some time  ago :

"Folks, as a long time Vanagon shop mechanic, I need to comment on the
article in the last issue of The Transporter I received yesterday, about:  "R&R
The Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly....on page 7.  There is  incorrect
information given in that article which could lead to problems and  possibly an
accident.  First and foremost the torque spec on the rear axle  nut is 360 ft.
lbs. not 253 ft. lbs. as stated in the article.  See page  42.4 in the
Vanagon Bentley workshop manual.  Improper torque on this nut  can lead to
problems.  Secondly, replacing worn bearings with used bearings  is not
mechanically sound advice.  Especially since the rear wheel bearings  and seals are
inexpensive items.  The only "special" tool needed to change  the bearings in
that hub is a pair of snap ring pliers. Removing  the bearings from the hub
can be easily done with a drift and  hammer.  They are not pressed in
requiring any special press or bearing  tool.  Torqueing of the axle nut can be
done with the proper torque wrench  or bring the vehicle to a truck repair
shop, or use the proper socket  with breaker bar with an pipe extension.
Calculate your weight  and then stand on the end of the extension bar the proper
distance from the  centre of the axle to produce 360 ft' lbs. of torque.
Vehicle on its  wheels, on the ground, rear hand brake fully engaged and wheel
being torqued  blocked. Now, more to the problem, replacing the bearings
without checking  the spacer, hub, splines and nut for wear can also lead to
more problems.   The rear bearings are in a fixed length environment.  The
distance is  governed by the width of the bearing races, the spacer and the
hub.  If any  of these are worn then the distance is incorrect and tightening
the nut will not  make it better.  The nut will come to the end of its
threads on the spline  and can certainly be torqued to spec and still not apply
the proper pre-load on  the new bearings due to spacer, hub and or nut faces
being worn.   Trust me I have seen all these scenarios in my shop.  The
spacer and  hub must be measured against the length of a new one.  The Bentley
manual does not state these dimensions.  I have measured new spacers and
they are 42.8 mm.  I have documented that measurement on my _sales webpage_
(http://www.frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  where the  listing for that spacer
resides.  The hub width, I do not know as I have  not had the opportunity to
have a new hub pass before me for measurement.   However, if the two end
faces of the hub were showing signs of wear I would be  suspicious.  Also, the
face of the nut is important to be in good  condition.  Any reason to suspect
it would be reason enough to replace it  with a new one.  One last point is
to check the splines in the hub and on  the axle for wear.  If the bearings
were run loose for any considerable  time, then the hub may certainly have
worn the splines and then the axle and hub  should be replaced.  To avoid
all of the problems you may see with this  issue it is highly advisable to
check the rear wheel bearings at least once a  year and repack them with
grease.  Whenever I find more than 1/4" movement  when trying to rock the rear
wheel with the van elevated off the ground and hand  brake off, I first loosen
and re-torque the axle nut, then if the 1/4" movement  is still there it's
time to look into renewing the rear wheel bearings and check  the spacer, hub
and nut.  I hope this helps someone before they follow  the misinformation
and cause more problems than need  be.

>>>>>The outer wheel bearings are fairly  inexpensive. So I think I am
going to h=
ave them replaced. I am going to  assume that the inner wheel bearings are=
=A0 still OK.=A0 It would be a  much bigger job to replace them.=A0 Am I
mak=
ing a mistake=A0 by this  assumption?=A0 =20<<<<<

Cheers,

Frank  Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
(http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
_Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html)  -
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
_BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/)  a VW Camper  camping event,
Almonte, ON, June 10 ~ 13,  2010