Just went through all of this
Not too bad of a job
even for an amateur like myself.
Here's the Tool I use to torque the Axle Nut.
I stand out 2 ft from center.
Now you know my weight !!!  ;o)

PS: List: Thanks for all of your help
with the Auto Trans Final Drive oil change!
In the end I just took the pan off.
(wanted to take a look in there, and to see if there was
a layer of crud on the bottom of the pan. There wasnt )

But,  the ATF looked like brown gravy!
Doubt it had Ever been changed!
(Looked clean on the dip stick? )
So folks; change it! :o)

On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 4:21 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 24/06/2010 12:01:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
>        MJ. the bearings are not  expensive.  See here > _Vanagon New
> Parts_ (http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  under "Wheel  Bearings"
> heading.
> The rear wheel bearings can only be changed by removing  the hub bearing
> carrier.  The bearings must be pressed out the side where  the CV is bolted
> to
> the stub axle, so you had better replace them both and make  sure the
> spacer
> is of the correct length listed on my website I just mentioned  to you.
> Also, read the following I wrote for the LiMBO newsleter some time  ago :
>
>
> "Folks, as a long time Vanagon shop mechanic, I need to comment on the
> article in the last issue of The Transporter I received yesterday, about:
>  "R&R
> The Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly....on page 7.  There is  incorrect
> information given in that article which could lead to problems and
>  possibly an
> accident.  First and foremost the torque spec on the rear axle  nut is 360
> ft.
> lbs. not 253 ft. lbs. as stated in the article.  See page  42.4 in the
> Vanagon Bentley workshop manual.  Improper torque on this nut  can lead to
> problems.  Secondly, replacing worn bearings with used bearings  is not
> mechanically sound advice.  Especially since the rear wheel bearings  and
> seals are
> inexpensive items.  The only "special" tool needed to change  the bearings
> in
> that hub is a pair of snap ring pliers. Removing  the bearings from the hub
> can be easily done with a drift and  hammer.  They are not pressed in
> requiring any special press or bearing  tool.  Torqueing of the axle nut
> can be
> done with the proper torque wrench  or bring the vehicle to a truck repair
> shop, or use the proper socket  with breaker bar with an pipe extension.
> Calculate your weight  and then stand on the end of the extension bar the
> proper
> distance from the  centre of the axle to produce 360 ft' lbs. of torque.
> Vehicle on its  wheels, on the ground, rear hand brake fully engaged and
> wheel
> being torqued  blocked. Now, more to the problem, replacing the bearings
> without checking  the spacer, hub, splines and nut for wear can also lead
> to
> more problems.   The rear bearings are in a fixed length environment.  The
> distance is  governed by the width of the bearing races, the spacer and the
> hub.  If any  of these are worn then the distance is incorrect and
> tightening
> the nut will not  make it better.  The nut will come to the end of its
> threads on the spline  and can certainly be torqued to spec and still not
> apply
> the proper pre-load on  the new bearings due to spacer, hub and or nut
> faces
> being worn.   Trust me I have seen all these scenarios in my shop.  The
> spacer and  hub must be measured against the length of a new one.  The
> Bentley
> manual does not state these dimensions.  I have measured new spacers and
> they are 42.8 mm.  I have documented that measurement on my _sales webpage_
> (http://www.frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  where the  listing for that
> spacer
> resides.  The hub width, I do not know as I have  not had the opportunity
> to
> have a new hub pass before me for measurement.   However, if the two end
> faces of the hub were showing signs of wear I would be  suspicious.  Also,
> the
> face of the nut is important to be in good  condition.  Any reason to
> suspect
> it would be reason enough to replace it  with a new one.  One last point is
> to check the splines in the hub and on  the axle for wear.  If the bearings
> were run loose for any considerable  time, then the hub may certainly have
> worn the splines and then the axle and hub  should be replaced.  To avoid
> all of the problems you may see with this  issue it is highly advisable to
> check the rear wheel bearings at least once a  year and repack them with
> grease.  Whenever I find more than 1/4" movement  when trying to rock the
> rear
> wheel with the van elevated off the ground and hand  brake off, I first
> loosen
> and re-torque the axle nut, then if the 1/4" movement  is still there it's
> time to look into renewing the rear wheel bearings and check  the spacer,
> hub
> and nut.  I hope this helps someone before they follow  the misinformation
> and cause more problems than need  be.
>
>
>
> >>>>>The outer wheel bearings are fairly  inexpensive. So I think I am
> going to h=
> ave them replaced. I am going to  assume that the inner wheel bearings are=
> =A0 still OK.=A0 It would be a  much bigger job to replace them.=A0 Am I
> mak=
> ing a mistake=A0 by this  assumption?=A0 =20<<<<<
>
>
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank  Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html)  -
> Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
> (http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
> _BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/)  a VW Camper  camping event,
> Almonte, ON, June 10 ~ 13,  2010
>