OOPS!   I guess the link would help !

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51453442@N06/

On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 10:56 AM, Fillmore West <fillmorewst@gmail.com>wrote:

> Just went through all of this
> Not too bad of a job
> even for an amateur like myself.
> Here's the Tool I use to torque the Axle Nut.
> I stand out 2 ft from center.
> Now you know my weight !!!  ;o)
>
> PS: List: Thanks for all of your help
> with the Auto Trans Final Drive oil change!
> In the end I just took the pan off.
> (wanted to take a look in there, and to see if there was
> a layer of crud on the bottom of the pan. There wasnt )
>
> But,  the ATF looked like brown gravy!
> Doubt it had Ever been changed!
> (Looked clean on the dip stick? )
> So folks; change it! :o)
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 4:21 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 24/06/2010 12:01:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>>
>>        MJ. the bearings are not  expensive.  See here > _Vanagon New
>> Parts_ (http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  under "Wheel  Bearings"
>> heading.
>> The rear wheel bearings can only be changed by removing  the hub bearing
>> carrier.  The bearings must be pressed out the side where  the CV is
>> bolted to
>> the stub axle, so you had better replace them both and make  sure the
>> spacer
>> is of the correct length listed on my website I just mentioned  to you.
>> Also, read the following I wrote for the LiMBO newsleter some time  ago :
>>
>>
>> "Folks, as a long time Vanagon shop mechanic, I need to comment on the
>> article in the last issue of The Transporter I received yesterday, about:
>>  "R&R
>> The Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly....on page 7.  There is  incorrect
>> information given in that article which could lead to problems and
>>  possibly an
>> accident.  First and foremost the torque spec on the rear axle  nut is 360
>> ft.
>> lbs. not 253 ft. lbs. as stated in the article.  See page  42.4 in the
>> Vanagon Bentley workshop manual.  Improper torque on this nut  can lead to
>> problems.  Secondly, replacing worn bearings with used bearings  is not
>> mechanically sound advice.  Especially since the rear wheel bearings  and
>> seals are
>> inexpensive items.  The only "special" tool needed to change  the bearings
>> in
>> that hub is a pair of snap ring pliers. Removing  the bearings from the
>> hub
>> can be easily done with a drift and  hammer.  They are not pressed in
>> requiring any special press or bearing  tool.  Torqueing of the axle nut
>> can be
>> done with the proper torque wrench  or bring the vehicle to a truck repair
>> shop, or use the proper socket  with breaker bar with an pipe extension.
>> Calculate your weight  and then stand on the end of the extension bar the
>> proper
>> distance from the  centre of the axle to produce 360 ft' lbs. of torque.
>> Vehicle on its  wheels, on the ground, rear hand brake fully engaged and
>> wheel
>> being torqued  blocked. Now, more to the problem, replacing the bearings
>> without checking  the spacer, hub, splines and nut for wear can also lead
>> to
>> more problems.   The rear bearings are in a fixed length environment.  The
>> distance is  governed by the width of the bearing races, the spacer and
>> the
>> hub.  If any  of these are worn then the distance is incorrect and
>> tightening
>> the nut will not  make it better.  The nut will come to the end of its
>> threads on the spline  and can certainly be torqued to spec and still not
>> apply
>> the proper pre-load on  the new bearings due to spacer, hub and or nut
>> faces
>> being worn.   Trust me I have seen all these scenarios in my shop.  The
>> spacer and  hub must be measured against the length of a new one.  The
>> Bentley
>> manual does not state these dimensions.  I have measured new spacers and
>> they are 42.8 mm.  I have documented that measurement on my _sales
>> webpage_
>> (http://www.frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  where the  listing for that
>> spacer
>> resides.  The hub width, I do not know as I have  not had the opportunity
>> to
>> have a new hub pass before me for measurement.   However, if the two end
>> faces of the hub were showing signs of wear I would be  suspicious.  Also,
>> the
>> face of the nut is important to be in good  condition.  Any reason to
>> suspect
>> it would be reason enough to replace it  with a new one.  One last point
>> is
>> to check the splines in the hub and on  the axle for wear.  If the
>> bearings
>> were run loose for any considerable  time, then the hub may certainly have
>> worn the splines and then the axle and hub  should be replaced.  To avoid
>> all of the problems you may see with this  issue it is highly advisable to
>> check the rear wheel bearings at least once a  year and repack them with
>> grease.  Whenever I find more than 1/4" movement  when trying to rock the
>> rear
>> wheel with the van elevated off the ground and hand  brake off, I first
>> loosen
>> and re-torque the axle nut, then if the 1/4" movement  is still there it's
>> time to look into renewing the rear wheel bearings and check  the spacer,
>> hub
>> and nut.  I hope this helps someone before they follow  the misinformation
>> and cause more problems than need  be.
>>
>>
>>
>> >>>>>The outer wheel bearings are fairly  inexpensive. So I think I am
>> going to h=
>> ave them replaced. I am going to  assume that the inner wheel bearings
>> are=
>> =A0 still OK.=A0 It would be a  much bigger job to replace them.=A0 Am I
>> mak=
>> ing a mistake=A0 by this  assumption?=A0 =20<<<<<
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Frank  Condelli
>> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
>> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
>> (http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
>> _Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html)
>>  -
>> Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
>> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
>> (http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
>> _BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/)  a VW Camper  camping event,
>> Almonte, ON, June 10 ~ 13,  2010
>>
>
>