it's a sales tool really.
if it says the bf is due ...
you use it to show to the customer.
I don't use them anymore myself.
all us vanagon savvy types on here know when to change the bf without even
thinking about it.

and yeah, I get a dead vanagon ...that I'll fix up to sell, first thing I do
is change the bf.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jake de Villiers" <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Brake question......

> That's funny!
>
> I've never used test strips on the fluid.  I change it when I get the
> vehicle so I know where we are, then flush as necessary.
>
> Its pretty easy to tell icky fluid from one push on the pedal with the
> bleeder open.
>
> Jake
>
> On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 8:38 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>>  hey ..
>> I knew that would bring out some accurate details. ..thanks .
>>
>> if 3.7 % is 'wet' ...
>> what is 60 % water content called ?
>> super wet or hyper wet ?
>> :-)
>>
>> shop to customer ...'you need your water/brake fluid mixture richened up
>> some with brake fluid, it's closer to 70/30 water-to-brake fluid right
>> now.
>> We should get it down to at least only 3.7 % water."
>>
>> ever use those 'litmus paper' strips to test brake fluid condition  ?
>> There are also electronic devices that will test brake fluid condition
>> now
>> I think.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com>
>> *To:* Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
>> *Cc:* vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 25, 2010 8:08 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Brake question......
>>
>> Whoa up cowboy!
>>
>> The 'wet' boiling point of Dot 3 is 284 F and the 'dry' boiling point is
>> 401 F.
>>
>> The wet boiling point of Dot 4 is 311 F and the dry boiling point is 446
>> F.
>>
>> 'Dry brake fluid is fresh fluid and 'wet' fluid is defined as having a
>> water content of 3.7% by volume.
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
>> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I was surprised how low the boiling point of brake fluid is.
>>> Dot 3 is only 273F I think,
>>> which isn't that far above the boiling point of water , as a handy
>>> reference.
>>>
>>> Vanagons use Dot 4 Brake Fluid of course...
>>> forget what the boiling point of that is, but it's somewhat higher ..
>>> and it's not anything like 400 degrees I don't think.
>>>
>>> shoot the temps of front rotors sometime after heavy brake use ....they
>>> can get way up there.
>>>
>>> and yes, it's mandatory to change brake fluid every two years on all
>>> cars.
>>> When it's old and thin and black ...
>>> it's probably 70 % water I bet.
>>>
>>> 'just sitting'......... brake fluid absorbs moisture out of the air. It
>>> attracts water practically.
>>> In a high humidity environment, it should be changed once a year.
>>> You may notice some  Owner's Manuals say 'add brake fluid from a sealed
>>> container.'
>>>
>>> and that is a great idea on the blue and gold fluids ..so you can tell
>>> when the old is out and new is in.
>>> 'usually' products made for racing might be better at racing
>>> applications
>>> than for daily and regular road use, so check on that I'd say.
>>>
>>> I just believe in a high quality Dot 4 brake fluid, and change it twice
>>> a
>>> year, including clutch hydraulics.
>>>
>>> Scott
>>> www.turbovans.com
>>>
>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>>   From: Don Hanson
>>>  To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans
>>>  Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
>>>  Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 1:50 PM
>>>  Subject: Re: Brake question......
>>>
>>>
>>>  Right on, Scott.
>>>
>>>    A loaded Westie, maybe an automatic without much engine braking,
>>> going
>>> down a long steep grade...that is "Brake Fade...waiting to happen"  if
>>> you
>>> apply the brake the whole time to control your downhill speed.  If you
>>> apply
>>> continuous braking all the way down a long hill, the pads and rotors get
>>> real hot and transmit that heat into the caliper and through that to the
>>> fluid.  Real hot brake pads are also less effective, requiring more
>>> braking
>>> as the heat builds, so you have to push harder, creating even more
>>> heat...a
>>> vicious cycle..
>>>
>>>   The most effective way to descend in a heavy vehicle with small brakes
>>> is to apply them firmly and slow the vehicle below it's 'perfect speed',
>>> then get off the brakes and let it build back up to speed (allowing the
>>> brakes to cool off some)  Watch the truckers go downhill.
>>>
>>>    Brake fade is mostly caused by the moisture in your brake fluid
>>> turning
>>> to steam.  Brake fluid has a very very high boiling point but it also
>>> loves
>>> moisture...So over time your brake fluid will absorb a small amount of
>>> moisture...a drop or two in the whole vehicle's brake system is all it
>>> takes
>>> to create a lot of steam....Water expands  and creates a lot of steam
>>> which
>>> is 'compressable' unlike brake fluid...So at 212f...which is nothing
>>> when
>>> you are talking brake temps...your brake system can boil the moisture in
>>> old
>>> stale brake fluid and give you  the classic "Soft Pedal" of brake
>>> fade....You push and push harder but all you are doing is compressing
>>> the
>>> steam that's been created by Hot Brakes...
>>>
>>>    Changing brake fluid regularly is good.  Once you experience Brake
>>> Fade...you will become a believer...if you live.
>>>  In my road racing car I changed brake fluid every race weekend, at
>>> least.
>>>  Sometimes I would change between sessions , if I'd really cooked the
>>> brakes.  I use ATE Super Blue and ATE Gold, alternating the two so I can
>>> see
>>> when I get Fresh new fluid out of my bleeder valves..Cheap insurance and
>>> not
>>> difficult with a Power Bleeder set up.
>>>    Don Hanson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
>>> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>    hi.
>>>    no , that is not classic brake fad.
>>>
>>>    Brake fad is when you have decent pedal, but brake pads and calipers
>>> have
>>>    gotten so hot from continued or hard downhill use, that the brake
>>> fluid
>>>    starts to boil...
>>>    then you have essentially no brakes, are barely any.
>>>
>>>    btw ...
>>>    continued light use ..or steady light use, as in a long decent is not
>>> the
>>>    right thing to do at all.
>>>    that just builds up heat.
>>>    Instead...use the brakes hard enough to drop some speed, then don't
>>> use
>>>    them ...
>>>    given them some cooling time...then use again a little harder, then
>>> let
>>> cool
>>>    etc...
>>>
>>>
>>>    And brake in new pads properly too.   Another subject.
>>>    Scott
>>>    www.turbovans.com
>>>
>>>    ----- Original Message -----
>>>    From: "Paul" <wognacious@GMAIL.COM>
>>>    To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>>>    Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 11:54 PM
>>>    Subject: Brake question......
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>      Is this what I've heard described as "brake fade?" I'll be going
>>> down
>>> a
>>>      hill
>>>      and the pedal feels normal, if there is such a thing, and once in a
>>> while
>>>      it
>>>      feels like the pedal all of a sudden will go right down to the
>>> floor
>>>      board.
>>>      I
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jake
>>
>> 1984 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX 'The Grey Van'
>> 1986 Westy Weekender/2.5 SOHC Suby 'Dixie'
>>
>> Crescent Beach, BC
>>
>> www.thebassspa.com
>> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
>> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Jake
>
> 1984 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX 'The Grey Van'
> 1986 Westy Weekender/2.5 SOHC Suby 'Dixie'
>
> Crescent Beach, BC
>
> www.thebassspa.com
> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27