It is internal hydraulic pressure that turns on the switch, not pedal
pressure. So whether that pressure comes from your foot or the booster
makes no difference.

Anecdotal evidence makes me think the early 3 wire switch takes more
pressure than the 85+ 2 wire one. Don't really know.

Mark

neil n wrote:
> Hi all.
>
> It's likely that my brakes engage before brake lights come on. (need a
> helper to confirm this)
>
>> From archives, 2 possible causes stuck out. Corrosion at bulbs, and
> rear shoes out of adjustment. i.e. fronts engage but rears too far
> away so extra pressure is needed to actuate switch for rear hydraulic
> circuit. But if one switch engages, all brake lights come on right? In
> my case, brakes work fine, pedal height is good, and has stayed
> consistent over several thousand miles, so the rears are working
> right. I'll check for corrosion at bulbs but they are likely fine.
>
> I recall checking the push rod adjustment on the new booster I
> installed ~4 years ago. Would an improperly adjusted push rod (on
> booster) affect amount of pedal pressure needed to turn brake lights
> on?
>
> What else would could be at fault here? Design flaw?
>
> Both brake light switches were replaced at time of booster install.
> AFAIK, the switch wiring is fine (untouched by me)
>
> No biggie, as the lights work. Would just like them to light up as
> soon as pedal is depressed.
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>