cool cool ;)

mine are not connected together just both blocked off for the time being. I
have new hose and T's and a heater valve.  But it's 100 fricken degrees down
here and I have zero motivation to reinstall the second heater.

-Ry
http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 7:11 PM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 4:54 PM, Ry <rylincoln@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> someone please tell me how you're creating a loop in which you will trap
>> air
>> any more than actually having the heater core hooked up?  coolant is still
>> traveling through the same path just not through a heater core...
>>
>>
>>
>> prepared to be schooled,
>> -Ry
>> http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln
>>
>>   Basic hydraulics.  Your circulatory (coolant)  system is a closed
> system, 'pressurized' (circulated?) by the water pump.  Liquid will travel
> through any path available and be at the same pressure in all the paths.  So
> when you (or when I did, without thinking it through) remove the rear
> heater, the valve and the heater radiator both, and connect the hoses
> together in a loop, you have simply created an always open loop through
> which the coolant will constantly circulate at the same pressure as that
> which is going forward to the main radiator.  But now, at the rear 'loop',
> it no longer passes through a radiator (the heater core) so it is simply
> wasted circulation/ a diminishing of the effectiveness of your water
> pump...With the rear heater in place and working...when you turn it on, you
> get cooling of the coolant...Without that and an open loop, you get useless
> circulation of the coolant only.
>   You won't get air locks or bubbles...you just get wasted function from
> your water pump.  If you closed off those hoses...the water hits a dead end
> and then goes on through your real radiator, cooling the coolant...No
> circulation through an un-cool loop...sorry for that one.
>    Don Hanson
>
>