If you are planning on removing the exhaust manifold do yourself a favor
and go get some PB Blaster and douse the rusty baked-on nuts and studs right
now.    I've never been a user of that kinda product..other than the
occasional try of Liquid Wrench that never seems to do much.  After reading
about it's 'magic' here on the list, I got some..with misgivings as to
whether it would help with frozen on rusted over tight nuts and bolts.  It
certainly does.

  I bought a used 2.0 liter Jetta inline for insertion in my 84 and I wanted
the nicer exhaust manifold off the head, which I won't be using on my "new"
motor, .  Doused the fasteners for two consecutive days whenever I thought
of it, maybe 6 times...Those rusty old nuts came right off and then for
grins, I took out one of the exhaust studs, too..No problemo with that
either.  Good stuff.  Got mine at a chain hardware  True Value I think.

  Your oil pressure warning...Dunno anything about the buzzer or the dynamic
oil pressure warning circuitry but if you get the warning at the same rpm
exactly and you get it with a hot or cold motor..without any
difference...It's more likely to  be an electrical glitch...If you only get
it when the motor is hot and it seems kinda RPM-dependent, but not the exact
same RPM, depending on temp and load...could be a mechanical fault...worn
main bearings or something..Sounds like the circuitry, to me..hopefully for
you.

  Don Hanson

On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 9:55 AM, David Clarkson <Dvdclarksn@aol.com> wrote:

> Time for some diagnostic work I'm afraid. In my ten years of owning my 90
> Westy I have never had this warning activate. It went off just yards from
> my
>  driveway fortunately (thank you Van Gods). I checked it again this morning
> and  it does magically activate at 2200 RPM's. I have perused that Archives
> and will  set out to check all of the wiring and also for leaks at the
> sensors. Of course,  I have 15w-40 Mobil 1, correct oil level , Mahle
> filter and
> no apparent issues  with the oil itself. Quick check doesn't show any
> corrosion at the connector  that splits off the wiring to each of the
> sensors.
> Not looking forward to  possible removal of exhaust nuts to remove the
> engine
> tin. I have had some sort  of slow oil leak from behind this tin so I'll
> check this too. Wonder could it be  a leaking sensor? I had the van up on a
> lift cleaning off dye in the AC for a  known leak at one of the condenser
> connections (another frustrating problem now  secondary to this frightening
> issue
> ) then after driving about 15 miles  home it went off and my heart sank.
> Just don't have the money in the budget for  the Subi 2.5 transplant yet.
> The
> only other likely possibility not near the  engine area that might explain
> this issue is the sometimes problematic 14 point  ribbon connection at the
> speedo that is very fragile with a broken corner of the  plastic that the
> ribbon folds over and the connector slips on to. According to  the archives
> this
> connector carries the wiring from the sensors. Guess its time  to get her
> up on ramps (don't want to drive back to work to use the lift should  I
> have
> a true oil pressure issue) and scrape the knuckles and try not to use my
> outside cursing voice. The engine was rebuilt about 100,000 miles ago by
> The
> Bug  Shop in Blacksburg, Va. -Plug for the Bug Shop and Jewel the
> owner-excellent  rebuild IMHO. It was broken in on conventional Dino oil
> for the first
> 10,000  miles and then nothing but 15-40 Mobil One. Oil changed every 7,000
> miles and  filter change every 3500 miles. I'll report back on my findings.
> Got to have her  ready for the trip to the Outer Banks without breaking the
> bank in two  weeks.
>
>
>
> David  Clarkson
> 1990 Westfalia
>