Thanks much Alistair.

Good to know re SS. Thought to heat it, but had no idea how it would
work harden. Of course all this depends on whether or not this little
part is sold in lots of __ or not. If I have to buy a bunch then, I'm
out!

The crimping tool the the North Van marine shop will let me use, is
similar to this. i.e. the right tool:

http://www.toolguys.com/product/jet-equipment-jst-24-swaging-tool-14-cutting-capacity-24

The parts can be crimped on to the cable removed from the assembly so
no awkwardness.

And for sure. That spring is a fairly large gauge. It stays under
tension (compressed) when top down.

Neil.

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 9:54 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Neil,
>
> I'd be inclined to heat the stainless with torch to red and then bend. You probably would be able to get away with bending cold, but I'd heat it.
>
> I noticed a guy on the samba ( "spitsandrovers"?) in response to your query, said he never used a crimper, just vice grips. Well all I can say is he must be crimping small and lightly loaded stuff. if you have access to real crimper/swager, use it even if its an awkward tool to get in position for your job. And besides, your swaging a stainless fitting, not some soft alloy.
>
> 5mm bolt, kept tight, i think would be strong enough.
>
> there is a surprising amount of force contained in the lift assembly, its good your thinking about strength of materials.
>
> good luck
>
> alistair
>
>
>
>
> On 3-Aug-10, at 9:03 PM, neil n wrote:
>
> Hi all.
>
> Trying to come up with a way to make a cable ( I'll use 3/32" OD) �for the
> spring in pop top.
>
> Thinking this: (PN 190025):
> http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/blu190025.pdf �held with bolt through
> hole in lower arm where "Z" bit was. There might be enough room for a nylon
> locking nut on other side of arm. New part needs to be bent to follow curve
> at end of arm.
>
> Would bending this stainless part ~ 45* weaken the metal to much to be
> useable in this application?
>
> Would a 5 mm bolt in that application be strong enough not to shear?
>
> Any educated guesses?
>
> On the other end of cable, I would drill out the stopper, pass cable
> through, leave ~ 1/2" end exposed, crimp on a stopper. (though I'm not sure
> if there would be enough room between pivot pin and exposed cable + crimp)
>
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines