Thanks Don.

Should be easy to get at. Once made, the cable just slips through
spring and around lower arm. (I just posted some pics)

AFAIK, the struts have to be removed to do the job.

The only caveat to this all is how much room there is (spring still
slightly tensioned, pop top open), between bottom pivot pin and
repaired end of cable. I plan on drilling the stock bigger end piece
out, running cable through, then crimping a stopper on. The exposed
cable + stopper may be too long and bump up against the pivot pin.

Neil.

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:45 PM, Don Hundt <dhundt@bendbroadband.com> wrote:
> Neil,
> If it a difficult spot to crimp, you could probably attach it with good
> solder. Stick the cable in the hole, heat the fitting with a torch (don't
> burn up your van) then flood the joint with solder, just as you would sweat
> a pipe. I can't vouch for the strength, but I have done cable fittings this
> way for other applications.
> Don
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "neil n" <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 1:09 AM
> Subject: Re: Swage Bit + Bolt for Pop Top Cable. Strong enough?
>
>
>> Had thought to bend near eyelet, but am thinking that bending it in a
>> curve to match shape of strut arm end would be best.
>>
>> Wouldn't bending it at or near the eyelet introduce risk of it
>> snapping at that point and/or create a sharp angle where cable exits
>> the hollow?
>>
>> Or would bending (curving) the entire piece (including hollow portion)
>> risk malforming the crimp thus possibly making the cable loose?
>
>

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines