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Subject:Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!
From:Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Date:Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:58:35 -0700

that's a good set up, and a fine  place for your oil temp sender. 

speaking of, what are your oil temps on a hot day at cruise and long hills etc ?
and do you have an oil cooler.

I just put a really nice oil cooler setup  on a sycnro with 2.2 wbxr engine .
the one Chris  Corkin sells on thesamba .. with the 'better waterboxer' engines.  

very nicely done, fits  nicely  behind the righ tail light, nicely ducted etc. 
the syncro version has a temp triggered electric fan on it too.
I want one.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ry 
  To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans 
  Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 8:47 PM
  Subject: Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!

  I run with the 2200rpm oil switch grounded to the engine block. BUT I have an oil pressure gauge and I am very attentive to my gauges.  I have an oil temperature gauge hooked up to where my high rpm oil switch was.

  -Ry
  http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln

  On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 9:29 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

    grounded wire for the high rpm oil pressure switch will keep the DOPS happy
    ..
    whether  there is oil pressure or not.

    if it's open to the high rpm switch ..
    the DOPS will think there's no OP at high rpm and set off the alarm.

    so if it shorts to ground..
    everything will look like it's ok...
    when you turn on the key, when at low rpm etc ..
    and you won't even know the high rpm portion isn't working ..
    if that wire gets grounded.

    there are lots of cars btw, running around with non-working oil warning
    lights.
    got one here right now ..
    91 syncro ....2.1 ( 2.2 actually ) waterboxer engine.
    turn on the key, oil light does not flash.
    which means the low rpm portion is not working .........it's probably been
    that way for years without the van's driver/owners realizing the low rpm oil
    pressure warning isn't working.

    and it DOES say ..in the owner's manual..
    turn on the key, see the oil light flashing ....that's a test that it's
    working.
    many people do not notice non-functioning warning lights, evidently.
    I see it a few times a year on various cars and vanagons.

    and if the wire to a 2.1 wbxr engine's high rpm oil pressure switch is
    grounded ..
    there will never be any indication that's not working. It will look like it
    is, but it can't be of course.

    I know this since it's what we do for a   subaru engine installation ..
    just ground that wire , that keeps the DOPS happy for the high rpm oil
    pressure warning function.

    Scott
    www.turbovans.com

    ----- Original Message -----

    From: "Zolly" <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
    To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>

    Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 11:13 AM
    Subject: Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!

      At that speed does the high pressure switch start working.  Or not.  This
      time did not work.
      Grounded wire,
      Faulty switch,
      Low oil pressure, (most unlikely)

      Sometimes a cupful of Marvel Mystery oil would get the switch work again.
      Mostly not.
      Zoltan

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
      To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
      Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 10:28 AM
      Subject: Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!

      If it goes off only at rpms>2200, the engine tin should not be
      involved.  The high speed sensor is at the rear of the engine near the
      crank pulley.  Check the wire connecting to it and then check whether
      it provides a connection to ground which changes with engine speed.

      Larry A.

      On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 12:55 PM, David Clarkson <Dvdclarksn@aol.com>
      wrote:

        Time for some diagnostic work I'm afraid. In my ten years of owning my 90
        Westy I have never had this warning activate. It went off just yards from
        my
        driveway fortunately (thank you Van Gods). I checked it again this
        morning
        and it does magically activate at 2200 RPM's. I have perused that
        Archives
        and will set out to check all of the wiring and also for leaks at the
        sensors. Of course, I have 15w-40 Mobil 1, correct oil level , Mahle
        filter and
        no apparent issues with the oil itself. Quick check doesn't show any
        corrosion at the connector that splits off the wiring to each of the
        sensors.
        Not looking forward to possible removal of exhaust nuts to remove the
        engine
        tin. I have had some sort of slow oil leak from behind this tin so I'll
        check this too. Wonder could it be a leaking sensor? I had the van up on
        a
        lift cleaning off dye in the AC for a known leak at one of the condenser
        connections (another frustrating problem now secondary to this
        frightening
        issue
        ) then after driving about 15 miles home it went off and my heart sank.
        Just don't have the money in the budget for the Subi 2.5 transplant yet.
        The
        only other likely possibility not near the engine area that might explain
        this issue is the sometimes problematic 14 point ribbon connection at the
        speedo that is very fragile with a broken corner of the plastic that the
        ribbon folds over and the connector slips on to. According to the
        archives
        this
        connector carries the wiring from the sensors. Guess its time to get her
        up on ramps (don't want to drive back to work to use the lift should I
        have
        a true oil pressure issue) and scrape the knuckles and try not to use my
        outside cursing voice. The engine was rebuilt about 100,000 miles ago by
        The
        Bug Shop in Blacksburg, Va. -Plug for the Bug Shop and Jewel the
        owner-excellent rebuild IMHO. It was broken in on conventional Dino oil
        for the first
        10,000 miles and then nothing but 15-40 Mobil One. Oil changed every
        7,000
        miles and filter change every 3500 miles. I'll report back on my
        findings.
        Got to have her ready for the trip to the Outer Banks without breaking
        the
        bank in two weeks.

        David Clarkson
        1990 Westfalia

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