That sure seems right to me.  If you are quick with the swich-out, you may
not need to do much if any bleeding.  Just add to your overflow and wait a
few run/cool cycles.

On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 12:16 PM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:

> Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL
> Campmobile won't shut off.  That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat, since
> shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering the
> cabin.
>
> So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve.
>  Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped.  Valve appears to turn from
> external view when the lever is shifted.  I can turn the valve directly with
> my hand, and the lever shifts.  Did this with a partner watching the lever,
> and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under the
> van.  Seems to work both ways.
>
> So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right?  Looks
> simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be
> refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system.  Well,
> that's another story.  Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve?
>  Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are
> experts, I'm not.
>
> David McNeely
>

--
Alan Felder
Austin TX
82 Diesel Westy