Yes, most people do it that way I think but you will find it
frustrating. I've found it's quicker to do it the way I described, but
that's just me. You sure can do it in place like you were saying.

Jim

On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 3:44 PM,  <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
> Jim, thanks again. �My reason for putting a clamp on would be to avoid losing coolant when I pull the valve, not to delay replacing the valve.
>
> I remember now that Scott said that one has to pull the cluster. �It looked to me, looking at the valve and hoses from below, that I could actually replace the valve without doing anything upstairs. �Just clamp off the hoses, pull the valve out of the hose, disconnect it from the cable, connect a new valve to the cable and put it into the hoses. �No can do that way?
>
> Maybe I will take this thing to the shop. �May be more trouble than it's worth to try to do it myself. �DMc
>
> ---- Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>> You could put a clamp on the hose for now and deal with it later.
>>
>> Or, you can fix it now and lose only a few ounces of coolant. I've
>> done it a number of times. No need to bleed if your system is in good
>> shape.
>>
>> Don't even try to work on the damn thing up in that hold it is in.
>> Loosen the cable clamp with a 7mm wrench (pull the cluster first and
>> note/mark the position of the cable relative to the clamp) and pull
>> the face and knobs off the cable slider assembly. Then drop the glove
>> box and pull the air distribution off to reveal the hoses and cable
>> going into the floor. Find the hose going from the valve up to the
>> heater and drop it off the heater outlet inside the glove box opening.
>>
>> Now go below and pull the whole thing down to your face level and
>> replace the valve, cable end and clip. You're done below. Go back in
>> the cabin and pull the new valve up by the cable and hose and
>> reconnect. Put the cluster back in, put the glove box back in and push
>> the air distributor cover back on and you won't even have to think
>> about it again for another eighteen to 24 months. they don't make
>> those valves like they used to ; )
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 12:16 PM, �<mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
>> > Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL Campmobile won't shut off. �That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat, since shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering the cabin.
>> >
>> > So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve. �Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped. �Valve appears to turn from external view when the lever is shifted. �I can turn the valve directly with my hand, and the lever shifts. �Did this with a partner watching the lever, and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under the van. �Seems to work both ways.
>> >
>> > So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right? �Looks simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system. �Well, that's another story. �Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve? �Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are experts, I'm not.
>> >
>> > David McNeely
>> >
>
> --
> David McNeely
>