no problem on getting all the air out of the system after you work on it.

there is some myth about 'difficult bleeding' .
I change entire engines ..
and the 'trickiest' thing I do is top up the pressure bottle for about 6
warm-up cool down cycles.

then after a while there when is no longer an air space there after it cools
back down ..
it's bled.  Keep an eye on it for a while.

I suppose you will not really know on that valve until it's in your hands
and you observe the internals actually shut off or not.
I don't think the cable and lever will quite adjust so there is 100 % closed
off, and 100 % fully on...
I opt for 100 % off and 90 % on , if that's the choice I get.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mcneely" <mcneely4@COX.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve

> Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL
> Campmobile won't shut off.  That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat,
> since shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering
> the cabin.
>
> So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve.
> Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped.  Valve appears to turn from
> external view when the lever is shifted.  I can turn the valve directly
> with my hand, and the lever shifts.  Did this with a partner watching the
> lever, and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while
> under the van.  Seems to work both ways.
>
> So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right?  Looks
> simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be
> refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system.  Well,
> that's another story.  Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve?
> Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are
> experts, I'm not.
>
> David McNeely