Cheap plastic alignment tool is the best solution, lacking an extra input
shaft lying around.
  In a pinch, I've used my finger to hold it basically lined-up,
lightly-finger-snugged the PP bolts, eye-balled the centering, final aligned
it with a wood dowel, then wrench-snugged the PP bolts the rest of the way.
Close enough is good enough on this job.  As long as it's not grossly
misaligned, it'll self-center upon installation of the engine into the trans
bellhousing.  A wiggle here, a push in there, a crank hand-spin a little
here, another wiggle-push there, and it's in!  Not usually too tough.

  Regarding hand-lapping the head, your method with take forever, if it's
out a couple thou.  Better to check it with a straight-edge and feeler
guages, to see if it's warped anywhere.  If it is, take it to a head
rebiulder for a light 'belt-sand' or a milling, if excessive.

Mike B.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Don Hanson" <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 7:16 PM
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject:      Clutch alignment tool? and Lapping compound ?

>  I am in the process of swapping parts around in my 84 5sp manual
> transmission inline gas VW powered vanagon.  I took out my 1.8 liter 92
> Jetta motor to swap in a 2.0 liter Jetta bottom end.  I'll reinstall my
> 1.8
> liter head onto the new 2.0 liter block and also re-use my 1.8 liter
> 'everything else' almost on the ABA block.  The ABA block is said to make
> more power.
>
>  So I haven't swapped a clutch recently.  I know I have to align the disc
> so it will remate with the output shaft of the trans.  Most people seem to
> use a second old tranny shaft? Or some special tool?  Is there a way to
> "McGuiver" something that would work without trying to source a spare
> shaft
> or mail order a clutch alignment tool?  I did a quick Google and I see the
> tool for pretty inexpensive, but I really want to finish up this swap in a
> day or two and get my van going again.  Could I carve or shape something
> from wood or PVC pipe or some-such, maybe duplicate the dimensions of my
> existing output shaft..since all the same parts need to remate anyhow?  I
> am
> working alone, so I want my reinstallation of the motor to be as smooth as
> possible.
>
>  Second question....I've seen valves lapped into heads using an abrasive
> compound on the valve seat and simply spinning the valve with some kind of
> compound between the valve and the seat.  I want to surface my 1.8liter
> head
> myself, in that same manner.  In order to clean off all the old gasket and
> get a good seal without taking it to a machine shop and trusting that job
> to
> someone I don't know, I want to use some lapping compound and a flat
> surface, like thick plate glass, and simply 'plane' the surface of the
> head
> by hand until it is shiny and flat. Has anyone done this?  It looks like I
> can do it without removing the cam or the valves..just take off the
> manifolds and I have the bottom of the head clear. I want to put it
> face-down on the flat surface with some compound and simply 'sand down'
> the
> mating surface till it is smooth, clean and flat.
>
> I see that compound comes in a couple of "grades", like sandpaper.  What
> grade do I need to go down to in order to get a good headgasket seal?  My
> "new" block was not leaking when I took that head off.  The old 1.8 liter
> one was leaking, but the head is ok, not cracked or badly warped.  The
> last
> time I removed and replaced that head, I did not surface anything..and
> after
> 40k miles, the headgasket did blow out between two of the cylinders...I
> recall someone saying "If you can avoid 'unsealing a motor' you should. It
> is difficult to get a good headgasket seal again"...They seem to have been
> right on..cause mine did eventually leak...Probably due to me cutting
> corners with the re-assembly...
>
>  Anyone know these answers or care to advise?  Thanks
>
>  Don Hanson