Don,

In recent times, everytime I've bought a new clutch plate, it came with a plastic alignment tool in the box.

BenT

Sent from my pressureplate

On Sep 4, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

>  I am in the process of swapping parts around in my 84 5sp manual
> transmission inline gas VW powered vanagon.  I took out my 1.8 liter 92
> Jetta motor to swap in a 2.0 liter Jetta bottom end.  I'll reinstall my 1.8
> liter head onto the new 2.0 liter block and also re-use my 1.8 liter
> 'everything else' almost on the ABA block.  The ABA block is said to make
> more power.
> 
>  So I haven't swapped a clutch recently.  I know I have to align the disc
> so it will remate with the output shaft of the trans.  Most people seem to
> use a second old tranny shaft? Or some special tool?  Is there a way to
> "McGuiver" something that would work without trying to source a spare shaft
> or mail order a clutch alignment tool?  I did a quick Google and I see the
> tool for pretty inexpensive, but I really want to finish up this swap in a
> day or two and get my van going again.  Could I carve or shape something
> from wood or PVC pipe or some-such, maybe duplicate the dimensions of my
> existing output shaft..since all the same parts need to remate anyhow?  I am
> working alone, so I want my reinstallation of the motor to be as smooth as
> possible.
> 
>  Second question....I've seen valves lapped into heads using an abrasive
> compound on the valve seat and simply spinning the valve with some kind of
> compound between the valve and the seat.  I want to surface my 1.8liter head
> myself, in that same manner.  In order to clean off all the old gasket and
> get a good seal without taking it to a machine shop and trusting that job to
> someone I don't know, I want to use some lapping compound and a flat
> surface, like thick plate glass, and simply 'plane' the surface of the head
> by hand until it is shiny and flat. Has anyone done this?  It looks like I
> can do it without removing the cam or the valves..just take off the
> manifolds and I have the bottom of the head clear. I want to put it
> face-down on the flat surface with some compound and simply 'sand down' the
> mating surface till it is smooth, clean and flat.
> 
> I see that compound comes in a couple of "grades", like sandpaper.  What
> grade do I need to go down to in order to get a good headgasket seal?  My
> "new" block was not leaking when I took that head off.  The old 1.8 liter
> one was leaking, but the head is ok, not cracked or badly warped.  The last
> time I removed and replaced that head, I did not surface anything..and after
> 40k miles, the headgasket did blow out between two of the cylinders...I
> recall someone saying "If you can avoid 'unsealing a motor' you should. It
> is difficult to get a good headgasket seal again"...They seem to have been
> right on..cause mine did eventually leak...Probably due to me cutting
> corners with the re-assembly...
> 
>  Anyone know these answers or care to advise?  Thanks
> 
>  Don Hanson