How about using good old John Muir's Phase 1, phase 2, and phase 3
tool kits as a template and monitor and adjust as needed for water cooled?

My mega micro tool kit has lots of stuff in it and it all fits in a
.45 cal army metal ammo box and weighs like 25#.   I have a list of what'
s in there(lot's of Harbor Freight tools for one thing despite my
Chinaphobia!!) and would share if anyone contacts me p-mail.  Might
even have a photo of it all spread out.  Have yet to use it
though.  Someday I'll add up what I have invested in it, I'll bet
it's under $100.  I keep a separate Plano tool box with spare parts
and electrical crimp things etc. and a separate flat Plano case for
nuts and bolts and zip ties.  "paranoia strikes deep" as the old song
says......

DM&FS

At 09:24 PM 9/7/2010, David Beierl wrote:
>At 06:25 PM 9/7/2010  -0700, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
>>75 of which appear to be snap-on tips for the screwdriver handle,
>>including Torx as well as an impressive collection of other fairly
>>useless tips. The handle counts as the 76th tool, which leaves a small
>
>Those tips are useless until you need one... <g>
>
>#2 and @3 Phillips, medium flat screwdriver; 10-13-14 mm wrenches
>will take you quite a ways with a Vanagon.  No worn-out screwdrivers,
>get new ones for the Phillips.  A long #2 can come in handy.  There
>might even be somewhere that takes a #1, so better to have one.
>
>8-15-17 wrenches also handy.
>
>By wrenches I mean box, open end (or combination box/open) and
>3/8-drive sockets, with a ratchet and short extension, 3" extension,
>universal joint. Preferably six-point sockets -- although with a
>beam-type torque wrench I guess the 12-pt would be better, since you
>have more choices of angle.
>
>Some metric hex keys.  An extra six-mm one with the short end
>shortened to reach the cap screws behind the water pump
>pulley.  Don't draw the temper when you shorten it.
>
>Whatever size your CV joints need -- prolly 8 mm triple-square.
>
>Beam-type torque wrench 3/8 drive, goes up to 75 lb-ft or so.  If
>you're not thoroughly used to working in aluminum you'll overtorque
>and pull the threads out every time if you don't measure.  You should anyway.
>
>Big torque wrench 1/2" drive that goes to 150 lb-ft, with a 19 mm
>(3/4") socket and sufficient extension to clear things -- for
>installing wheel nuts/bolts.
>
>Nutdrivers for the two sizes of heads on the small hose clamps --
>much easier than using a screwdriver. Might be six and seven mm.
>
>If you contemplate messing with coolant hoses, go to Napa and get
>their large hose clamp pliers meant for the flat spring-type clamps.
>
>Right-angle screwdriver for whatever the regulator screws are on your
>alternator -- Phillips or Torx
>
>Can of PB Blaster.
>
>Some vacuum hose.
>
>Roll of soft iron machinist's wire or the stuff they use to wire up
>cyclone fences.  Home Depot used to have it in the garden dept, dunno
>if still.  Coat hangers are not a suitable substitute, you want it
>dead soft so you're not fighting the wire when you go to use it.
>
>Pliers to cut the wire and twist the ends.
>
>Tube of Victor muffler cement.  Combining it with the soft iron wire
>will let you fix surprisingly large holes/cracks.
>
>Some crimp terminals and a decent stripper/crimper like the Channellock 908.
>
>Roll or two of wire -- 18 and 14, say.
>
>Bandanna to tie over your head.
>
>
>
>That's not exhaustive by any means, but it's a darn good start.
>
>d