---- David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET> wrote:

>
> For this sort of thing a long screwdriver or (much better) a
> mechanic's stethoscope can be your good friend.

I have used (and have seen a professional use) a long piece of round steel 9/16 inch stock.  Just put one end on the place suspected of producing the noise, and the other end against the mastoid bone (the convex mass behind the ear).  Move the sensor end about a bit, and pinpointing the noise is pretty easy.  Actually, anything that will transmit sound readily and that can fit between your ear and the suspect part will work.

When I took my Prius in for scheduled maintenance last, one of the items on Toyota's list was "adjust valves."  The quoted price -- an unconscionable amount -- over $800.  I wasn't at the dealership, but at an independent shop.  I raised my eyebrows considerably, took a deep breath, and said, "you're %$#&*!!ing joking."  "Nope."  The fellow then called the local Toyota dealership.  Their price was over $1100 (difference in hourly rate, I'm sure).  But, the person at the dealership told my guy that they don't do that valve adjustment.  Toyota had approved not doing it if a stethoscopic listen showed all quiet on the valve front.  I then personally called to get confirmation that my warranty would not be compromised, and went about my business.  A few days later I got a nice letter from the dealer, with a copy of the service bulletin that stated no warranty compromise if unneeded valve adjustments were skipped if listening by a qualified technician confirmed that the valves were quiet.

The valve adjustment calls for so many hours because of all the stuff bolted above and around the valve cover.  Sort of like changing out a water pump on the waterboxer I guess, or changing the oil pressure sender.

David McNeely