The stud holes should not be open to the coolant. Someone drilled them out
too far. The step suds now installed probably will not hold up. Not the
correct grade. These studs, nuts, washers need to be property class 10.9.
The mounting surface needs to be as flat as possible. The failure stared out
as loose fasteners and continued until something broke. Al alternator with
bad bearings are an out of balance armature may have added to it.  I also
see folks leave the lower pivot bolt loose enough to make belt adjustment
easier. This combined with a loose-oscillating belt is the kiss of death for
this poor bracket design.

Proper repair requires some case welding.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
David Beierl
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 8:13 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: 1.9l alternator bracket query

Is the case-edge where the bracket mounts normally chamfered somewhat, or
should it come to a sharp edge?  One of the several people to work on
Millee's Sally found a coolant leak from a bracket mounting stud, "epoxied
in new stud" -- actually installed two new 10-mm studs with ?12-mm? diameter
going into the case.  At least one is epoxied.  Didn't seat outboard one
fully, obvious gross misalignment of belt.  Inboard one still weeping.  I
enlarged the right-side mounting hole enough to accommodate the protruding
stud base, and the bracket is now *almost* pointing in the right direction.
I'll have to shim the left side just a touch.  But the top edge of the case
looks as though it's been beaten into a chamfer by the bracket a long time
ago, and there's one point on the inboard side where there's a fresh rub
mark.  There doesn't seem to be very much metal supporting things down there
and I'm wondering if this is no big deal or if I have to take steps to
reinforce it?  I can oval out the bracket holes if needed so the bracket
sits higher to leave room for said reinforcement.

Thanks,
David

--
David Beierl -- dbeierl@attglobal.net