Don't bother yet with the clutch slave. After you get the tranny lowered
a few inches it becomes a lot easier to deal with. Same with the starter
motor wiring. What I do is put a LONGER bolt at each end of the engine
carrier bar and then remove the other bolt at each end and lower the
engine by an inch or so at the back, hanging it loosely from the longer
bolts. This reduces the stress on the rubber mounts. You have to lower
the nose of the tranny quite a bit to get it free from the engine and
clear of the Syncro fuel tank before it slides forward off the engine.
Don't make the rubber mounts twist this much. You may also have
interference with the muffler/tailpipe if you don't lower the back of
the engine some before tilting the whole thing down at the nose to
remove the tranny.

Mark

craig cowan wrote:
> I was unable to get through much today due to wretched conditions and no
> assistance. Anyway, I started working on the clutch slave cylinder and was
> wondering what the best plan of attack for this is?
> Do you take the slave cylinder off the bracket? Or the bracket off the
> transmission?
>
> If the former, how do you get a wrench on the front bolt (right under the
> gas tank)?
> If the later, I have removed the attachment to the bellhousing and the
> support shaft to the transmission. Next would be to remove the clutch arm
> via the C clip and slide it off? Or am I missing something?
>
> How much easier is it to remove the engine and transmission as a unit? I was
> hoping not to have to deal with the engine side of things, but it would seem
> massively easier.
>
> -Craig
>
>
>