That's the key right there.  You can't just apply it to the old dusty, grimy
door panel - you need to clean the surface first with a solvent that
evaporates completely: naphtha, paint thinner, Varsol.

My Ice Guard roofing sound deadening is still well-adhered and doing a great
job of keeping noise levels down.  ;)

On Tue, Jan 18, 2011 at 5:35 AM, Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@yahoo.com>wrote:

> "..did not adhere perfectly and started to droop in the heat of summer and
> caught on the window."
>
> I'm really glad I'm not the only one this happened to.  The giveaway was
> the tarry streaks and binding that occurred when lifting the glass.  When I
> took the door apart again to fix it (by then the window had become REALLY
> stuck--a distinct disadvantage on toll roads) I used solvent/cleaner to make
> sure the stick-to surface was as clean as I could make it.  No problems
> since.
>
> Stephen
>
> --- On Mon, 1/17/11, Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA> wrote:
>
>
> From: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
> Subject: Re: Sound deadening and door speakers
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Date: Monday, January 17, 2011, 10:22 PM
>
>
>
> But, and here is the proviso, be careful when you apply to the front
> doors. My van had some wax on the interior surfaces of the doors and
> the proguard did not adhere perfectly and started to droop in the heat
> of summer and caught on the window.
>
> Also, as i dismantle that van I can see where it really stuck and
> where it didn't. The front doors, and above the driver/passenger were
> drooping. Everywhere else was good.
>
>
>
>
>
>

--
Jake

1984 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX - 'The Grey Van'
1986 Westy Weekender/2.5 SOHC Subie - 'Dixie'

Crescent Beach, BC

www.thebassspa.com
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27