One thing I hadn't done on previous install was to check for play
while finding the sweet spot of torque on nut.

I was surprised (newb still) at how small the increment of turn on nut
is before it's too tight, or too loose creating a smidge of feel-able
play on the push/pull. Along those lines, I would turn nut *just* past
point where washer could be easily moved, (Bentley method) then back
until play felt, then a little tighter and so on til I was certain
play was gone but washer would move.

A rough fraction, for point of reference for other newbs, was 1/12 of
a turn made a big difference either way.

This was done with wheel off.

After preload, I found that just "after" the play was gone, the washer
was more or less easily moved with the hand/finger on screwdriver
method (Bentley). This makes more sense to me now.

The question about self tightening nut may have applied, as there was
a stamp on the ones I used, but, one had been peened ever so slightly.
This was rubbing a little as nut was turned. The nut looks almost
brand new and I peened the other side.

Thanks for the info Ry,

Neil.

On 1/19/11, Ry <rylincoln@gmail.com> wrote:

> In addition to the above step I push in and pull out on the wheel to check
> for any play.  Ideally you want no push pull play and the wheel to spin
> freely by hand, i.e. not coming to a quick stop once you cease pushing it
> with your hand.
>
> ....Finding that point
> with no added resistance caused by over torquing and no push pull play.

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines