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Subject:Re: Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment (searched)
From:Alistair Bell
Date:Thu, 20 Jan 2011 08:48:54 -0800

Maybe he did mean that. But as you state that doesn't really solve
anything.

the rear axle has 10 castellations, therefore 5 positions for the
cotter pin, each about 72 degrees apart. Isn't the procedure for those
nuts to tighten to 360 ft/lbs then turn to next slot and put in cotter
pin.

Its an entirely different bearing assembly than the front, different
method for assembly/adjustment. The bearing is in there pretty well as
tight as you can get it, no need to adjust any play, so castelllated
nut is fine.

But at the front we have tapered roller bearings that require some
amount of play. VW's solution is to use more TPI on the stub axle, a
peened nut, and a procedure for determining the amount of side load
applied by the nut (the "can you move the washer" technique).

  Its not a cost cutting solution as Scott said.

alistair

On 20-Jan-11, at 7:44 AM, Ry wrote:

> I think he means that the cotter pin and it's hole doesn't take up
> the full width of the notches in the nut, therefore allowing one to
> get sort of halfway between a notch, though how you ensure it's held
> there isn't clear.  In that you can't ensure it's held half way
> between a notch.  Something you can do with a peen nut.
>
> -Ry
> http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 9:51 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> can you explain that more? I'm stuck at the "cotter pin is just
> slightly off center".
>
> alistair
>
>
>
> On 19-Jan-11, at 7:31 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>
>
> the cotter pin is just slightly off center ..
> that gives 'half' of each division of the castle nut possible...or
> double
> the number of slots in the castle nut -  I believe, plenty enough
> choices
> for fine adjustment.
>