I'll check the nut tightness. I think I read 27mm somewhere and 18 ft/lb. The local dealer has a gasket in-stock so I'll pick one up and give it a shot tonight. It sounds like it should be fairly straightforward.

Drain oil (it's due for a change)
Remove 2 hoses going to cooler (They should come off as I just did the WP a while ago) and drain coolant
Remove oil filter
Remove (or loosen) large nut and loosen housing
Replace gasket
Reassemble

Anyone know what size/thread pitch the large nut is? I think I read double-nutting it would save removing the coolant hoses...

On Jan 25, 2011, at 2:19 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

> I would immediately remove the oil filter and check the tightness of the nut holding on the oil cooler.
> those can get loose.
> it can cause a leak that can even lead to total engine failure ..
> there is an o-ring on top of the oil cooler , between oil cooler and engine block.
> a little tricky to replace.
> I have not seen them 'fail' really ....used ones usually work ok.
> and it's important to check the tightness of that nut. !
> 
> and yes....there's the high rpm oil pressure sender next to the crank pulley.
> should be easy to see if that's leaking ...watch it while it runs at elevated rpm just be careful in there.
> 
> the seal on the crank pulley ...I've never had a problem with one of those ..but consider that  for sure.
> 
> also crankcase breathing ..
> not usually a problem but all oil leaks, especially on seals where the inside of the engine is on the other side....oil level, oil type, and crankcase breathing should all be considered.
> 
> there are also push rod seals up under the tin covers on each side..
> some chance of that.
> and the low rpm oil sender is under the left tin ...
> those can be tricky to get off too if exhaust nuts or bolts at the top of them are rusty.
> 
> btw..
> some people think all the oil in the engine will drain out when you remove the oil filter.
> it won't, only a little will spill.
> you could even just have a loose oil filter.  But check that nut !
> 
> also check for this..
> this has blown up engines  !
> make sure there is only one oil filter gasket/seal on the oil filter.
> 
> once in a while the old one sticks to the engine ..the low paid tech at jiffy lube doesn't notice, slaps on a new oil filter .there are two seals there ..
> it can seal just well enough to allow the car to go 20 miles then pump out all it's oil and run the engine.
> It has happened.
> such a large leak like you are having should be fairly easy to find.
> I don't think you'll need this but a low tech oil leak finder is white baby powder sprayed on the engine.
> Just one of my many many useful tricks on cars and vanagons.
> 
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaron" <a.robinson.lists@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 11:19 AM
> Subject: Oil leak...
> 
> 
> I'm trying to ID and oil leak and figure out how hard it would be to fix. This type of thing is something I haven't done much of..Please feel free to refer me to the bentley. I haven't looked yet, but will be tonight and figuring if I want to take this to a pro or if it's something I can tackle in an evening or two.
> 
> On my '87 2.1L van, I've been getting a nice 6" round oil spot under the van every time I stop and spots on the back hatch. Last night I pressure washed the oil-caked area on the front/bottom of the engine (back side of the van) and it appears that the leak is coming from an area above the oil filter housing. I can't see where as it's too tight to see around the heat shield. I also looked around the main pulley seal, and I don't see any oil that's apparent there. I do see a ground wire running to the back area there and it appears that there may be some sensor there.  As I said, I haven't looked at the bentley yet and will be when I get home, but I wanted to get a good start.
> 
> Thanks!
> Aaron