Thanks Scott, but it was MINUS 25, record cold for Colorado.  It was an Arizona van so even the coolant mix could be a little light.

--- On Thu, 2/3/11, Scott Daniel  - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> From: Scott Daniel  - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
> Subject: Re:      Oops - I let the engine freeze
> To: "David Vickery" <david_vickery@YAHOO.COM>, vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Date: Thursday, February 3, 2011, 3:30 PM
> surely you don't have pure water in
> your waterboxer cooling system ? ?
> 
> even in summer, a 50/50 mix must be run. It's not just for
> freezing protection ..it might help cool better too, plus
> the corosion protection factor.
> so never ever run pure water in any engine unless it's for
> a day or two or an emergency.
> 
> so if there is even 10 % old anti-frz in your coolant, 25 F
> shouldn't do any real damage.
> 
> it is common however, for the rubber outer water gaskets on
> the heads ( a very joke design ) to seep on the bottom
> sitting in cold temps.
> No freeze plugs per se.
> there's a drain allen screw on the bottom of each head
> though.
> 
> don't tell anyone ..but I'd do a good coolant change with a
> high quality conventional� anti-frz ( i'm going over to
> Dexcool on my keeper good vehicles ..but dont' invest in
> that yet ) ..
> I am a huge believer in adding a little mchinist's water
> soluble oil as a water pump lube and rust inhibitor ..
> and ...here's the don't tell part ..
> some, not too much ...Barsleak may keep it working and not
> leaking.
> that's the only stop leak I recommend too.
> and don't dump 2 bottles in either ..
> just a basic semi-modest treatment ..
> and immediately drive it until fully warmed up , with all
> heaters on.
> Drive like a good 40 minutes.
> 
> you can also eyeball the upper side of the black rubber
> outer water gasekts..
> try to get an idea if they're badly pinched ( if you have
> AMC heads I'd be extra suspecious of that ) ..
> see if they're pinced, or all white with corrosion seeping
> off the aluminum ..
> if you see that ..you're in real trouble..
> or if they are just crumbly.
> yeah..
> they pinch, then crumble, and how the head sits on the
> barrels determines how much they arew squeased.
> Standerized parts were invented in about 1929 for
> automobiles..
> but on waterboxers ..the heads can sit too low squeazing
> the rubber gasket too much.
> or too high not squeasing it enough, and thus tending to
> leak or seep ..
> or the head can sit tilted ....then it's too tight at one
> end and maybe too high at the other end.
> Brilliant VW.
> it is an adapted air-cooled engine deisng after all.
> 
> and ALL other manufacturers are smart enough to make
> combustion sealing and coolant sealing in one flat plane
> ..not VW. it's two levels..
> one for combustion sealing, one for coolant sealing .. it's
> a joke.
> it's amazing how well they do last.
> We manage to get by with them though.
> 
> If corrosion is very evident all over your engine ..
> hope the cylinder head studs don't snap off down in the
> block when going to remove the heads.
> 
> The heads should really come off about every 80,000
> miles..
> do a valve job, and install new head gaskets
> 'carefully.'���That works well. And that
> rubber water gasket gap is important.
> 
> I hope it's ok.
> but treat that coolant asap.
> scott
> www.turbovans.com
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Vickery" <david_vickery@YAHOO.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 1:22 PM
> Subject: Oops - I let the engine freeze
> 
> 
> > We got down to minus 25 degrees (farenheit) the last
> couple days and I am assuming the coolant in my 2.1 engine
> froze because I started it up now that the weather is better
> and coolant was dripping pretty heavily from the tin
> covering the passenger side head.
> > 
> > Anyone with experience related to this?� Is it
> likely just a freeze plug that needs to be replaced
> now?���Are they easy to get to?� Could
> it be anything else?
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Dave in Fort Collins 
> 
>