

| Subject: | Re: Surface Rust on Gas Tank (with pics) |
| From: | brett rueff |
| Date: | Sun, 13 Mar 2011 20:51:04 +0000 |
ahhh yess.....that picture is telling. New tank for me I think. My time is not worth the $$$$ to be pulling this tank out again in 3 years when it rusts through. I have my feelers out already in the vancouver area for a used one or a new one. Will see what happens when the businesses open tomorrow. To the other chap asking about the job. I was about 1.5 hours getting the tank out. Pretty easy. I have a gowesty kit. You could put a kit together yourself for far less than the $100 approx this kit was but I wasn't prepared to do all the running around getting bits. I did have to buy ear clamp pliers - the kit comes with ear clamps. They were $20 in Canada, im sure they would be half that in the US. Not having put things back together yet im not totally sure but it looks like I have everything I need for the fuel tank area. The fuel hose supplied looks a little stingy - a bit extra might be needed but I have that laying around the house and 1/4 or 3/16 fuel hose in short lengths from the FLAPS is cheap. Cheerio.....anybody selling a gas tank in the vancouver/northwest WA area? Brett > Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 12:50:19 -0700 > Subject: Re: Surface Rust on Gas Tank (with pics) > From: musomuso@gmail.com > To: rueffy@hotmail.com > CC: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > > Hi Brett. > > I used rust inhibitor on vehicle frame NOT on the fuel tank. Wasn't > suggesting using that stuff on a fuel tank. :) > > If it were me, I'd replace that tank. > > At best, I'm a shade tree mechanic, not an expert. But IMO, (based on > your pics) rust inhibitor, paint etc. on a fuel tank in that condition > would only cover up rust that would likely become a hole(s) sooner > than the new grommets etc. would need to be replaced (next tank > reseal) > > The tank wall isn't that thick to start with. > > http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/446713.jpg > > Just my shade tree .02. :) > > Neil. > >
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