Hi Zoltan ..
I was kinda just playing some.
I was asking something yes..
but not needing a 'serious solid answer' ......
but it appears that was not understood.

is it 60K ?
when VW first had 02 Sensors ...like in Rabbits ..
about 86 or so ....I think the reminder light went off at 30K.

but 60K is a good mileage distance at which to check 02 sensor function.
Checking that is part of a tune up and 'fuel injection alignment/set up'
anyway ..in my world anyway.
Only takes a minute max.

----- Original Message -----
From: "HotelWestfalia" <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: Alternator question

> I'm not sure this helps.  The counter is set for 60k miles and trips a
> switch to get the OXY light on.  The oxygen sensor's life is calculated to
> be about 60k.  That wire must be to deliver power, I guess.  The box can
> be
> clicked back to reset to zero and keep on using the same oxygen sensor.
> But if you were asking to know something else, the above answer would not
> be
> helpful.
> Zoltan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 3:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Alternator question
>
>
>> tell me ..
>> All Knowledgeable One,
>>
>> why is the blue wire D + tied into the Oxygen Sensor elasped milage
>> counter
>> box and light ..
>> and why does it say 'cat elapsed milage counter' at the box, track 46,
>> page   97.107  ?
>>
>> I need a blow-by-blow too.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "David Beierl" <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 2:08 PM
>> Subject: Re: Alternator question
>>
>>
>>> At 12:44 PM 3/26/2011, Greg Potts wrote:
>>>>As Dennis suspected, the battery light does not come on when I first
>>>>turn the key before starting the van. Also possibly related: about a
>>>>week ago I also lost all my dash illumination. The gauges and coolant
>>>>warning light still function however; only the battery indicator and
>>>>dash lights seem to be affected.
>>>
>>> The only common point is the fact that both wires go through the
>>> panel connector.
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have removed and inspected the cluster and everything looks OK; I
>>>>tried swapping the LED's between the OXS and the battery but no luck.
>>>
>>> The LED itself actually carries only a minor part of the "tickler"
>>> current that starts the alternator going.  The rest is carried by a
>>> resistor in parallel - it's the large one you can see labeled as R3
>>> on 90.8 fig. 4.  When ALT lights were incandescents that drew a
>>> couple hundred milliamps this wasn't necessary.  But in this case the
>>> LED will carry around 15-20 ma, and the 150 ohm resistor about 80 or so.
>>>
>>>
>>>>I also checked the connection of the blue wire on the back of the
>>>>alternator and it appears to be clean and well seated.
>>>
>>> Pull that wire from the D+ terminal and check the key-on
>>> voltage.  Should be +12 but by the symptoms it will likely be
>>> zero.  If it's zero, follow it back to the panel and find out where
>>> it goes to +12.
>>>
>>> If by chance it *is* +12, stick your milliammeter on it and see how
>>> much current it will deliver to ground.  *Ought* to be in the range
>>> of 100 ma (and the light should light), but again I'm not expecting
>>> that it will be.  Ground it or connect it back to the alternator and
>>> again follow it back to see where it turns to +12.*  Can you read the
>>> wiring diagram (97.104 et. seq., tracks 6 and 51) or do you need a
>>> blow-by-blow?
>>>
>>> *if it goes to +12 as soon as you hook it back to D+ that indicates
>>> an alternator problem, but that seems unlikely since you've swapped
>>> alternators.
>>>
>>> Yrs,
>>> d
>>