Headlight circuits are protected one of two ways. Individual fuses for each element(or same side set) or a self resetting circuit breaker. This way when a bulb shorts out, (common when the filament drops) you don’t lose both sides at once or with the self resetting breaker you at least get flashing lights instead of nothing. If you really want brighter lights you need to consider the full path all the way from the alternator. 

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Rocket J Squirrel
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 5:12 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: A sturdy little fuse box?

[As I approach pulling the dash to R&R the heater box I'll be gathering
hintz and tipz for taking care of other things hidden behind the dash.
This is about adding a new fuse box for the beefed-up headlight wiring.]

As part of my dash work, I will be running a nice heavy gauge wire up
from the battery box for the headlights, which are already set up with
relays.

I want to install a new two-position fuse box. Separate fuses for high
and low beams. Something designed to be mounted to a flat surface with
screws.

Who's got a nice selection of sturdy little fuseboxes? The new fusebox
needn't use them stock Vanagon pointy fuses, blade types would be fine.

Many thanks for any help.

--
Rocky J Squirrel
'84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
'74 Westrailia: (Ladybug Trailer company, San Juan Capistrano, Calif.)
Bend, OR
KG6RCR