Interesting article.

This is a guess from a shade tree type, but as I commented in another
thread, the Febi brand bushing has a slightly narrower OD where it's
introduced into the arm. Maybe it's made this way to help one align it
before pressing. NOT saying it's the part to use. Just an observation
as relates to the GW article.

FWIW, I found a mar on one arm. One that might not have let the
bushing seat as straight as possible. I carefully ground it down.
Seems the PO or other must've hammered on the arm. Why I don't know.

Neil.

On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Troy <colorworks@gci.net> wrote:
> Thanks for the response Chris. �I have heard as well that some people omit the spot welding, which is one of the reasons I thought that JB Weld would hold the bushing well enough to prevent rotation. �$189 for a few bushings is a lot of money, and I have already purchased mine anyway. �They have lasted over 100,000 miles, so seems like a pretty good deal to me. �I would imagine if only part of the suspension is replaced with different quality materials that it could probably cause problems too. �Sounds like it's worth getting somebody to spot weld these in, but from the threads I've read that's where most people go wrong. They get overheated and destroy the bushing. Go Westy has a big writeup on this as well. http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=1144
>
> Troy
>
>
> �I had mine spot welded. �I later learned some don't bother spot welding the upper bushings and experience no bushing rotation, which tells me it can be omitted if you're adventurous.
>
> �This time around I'm inclined to go with Powerflex (http://t3technique.com/powerflex-bushings.html) for front and rear bushings. �High-quality marine grease is recommended.
>

-- 
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines