Hi Neil, yes each arm has a cable, and they appear unfrayed and wrap
tightly around the knee pulley when the top is down.

--

--
Rocky J Squirrel (Jack Elliott)

On Fri, 2011-06-03 at 18:35 -0700, neil n wrote:

> Mr. Rocket.
>
>
>
> In your pics, I don't see a cable, but do (I think) see the mark where
> it travelled.
>
>
> Is a cable present on each set of arms? When top down, is each under
> tension?
>
>
> Neil.
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 3, 2011 at 3:35 PM, Rocket J Squirrel
> <camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>         Thanks Mike S and Neil. I've been gone camping since Monday
>         morning and just got back. Have some catching up to do.
>
>         David B posted pictures of what a failing poptop hinge (pivot?
>         pulley?) looks like. The pulley looks to be bulging out of its
>         housing.
>         <https://picasaweb.google.com/dbeierl/VanagonPopTopHingeTroubles#>
>
>         I can't tell if mine is undergoing the same failure. The
>         poptop has gotten harder to move.
>
>         Here are shots of mine:
>         <https://picasaweb.google.com/j.michael.elliott/PoptopHinges?authkey=Gv1sRgCKXnpcK_gtDDuAE&feat=directlink>
>
>
>         --
>         Rocky J Squirrel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>         On Mon, 2011-05-30 at 09:56 -0700, neil n wrote:
>
>         > You will likely see this during your inspection, but have a look at
>         > the cable where it passes over the upper arm.
>         >
>         > https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/PopTopStrutCableAndSpringEtc#5509195367211185330
>         >
>         > Top down, or most of the way down, exposes most of the cable. You can
>         > still see part of cable top up. Check if cables are frayed.
>         >
>         > Neil.
>         >
>         > On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 6:28 AM, Rocket J Squirrel
>         > <camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:
>         > > Thanks. I wonder if anyone came up with an "everyman" solution. One not
>         > > requiring a lathe or Bronze Age metalworking skills. I'll eye the hinges in
>         > > Mellow Yellow this camping trip and if they look fishy I'll be needing to
>         > > fix 'em up. I'll raise the issue then.
>         > >
>         > > On Sun, 2011-05-29 at 22:02 -0700, neil n wrote:
>         > >
>         > > Oh.
>         > >
>         > > Maybe use PVC instead of copper? OD of that schedule (thickness) PVC
>         > > needed to be reduced or hole in arm embiggened much more so than for
>         > > the copper, but AFAIK, the ID wouldn't need to be altered. Personally
>         > > i would stick with metal. I just threw it out there.
>         > >
>         > > Neil.
>         > >
>         > > On Sun, May 29, 2011 at 9:56 PM, Rocket J Squirrel
>         > > <camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:
>         > >> Outstanding. There's another sentence maybe you could unpack:
>         > >>
>         > >> "Of note, a chunk of thicker wall 3/4" PVC found on bench fit bar OD
>         > >> nicely."
>         > >>
>         > >> Nice to hear, but I don't understand what this means.
>         > >>
>         > >> Would wearing 19th century deep sea diving equipment help?
>         > >>
>         > >> On Sun, 2011-05-29 at 21:48 -0700, neil n wrote:
>         > >>
>         > >> For annealing you will need:
>         > >>
>         > >> - Flux Capacitor
>         > >> - Box with window and gloves like Homer J has at work
>         > >> - 911 on speed dial
>         > >> - band-aids
>         > >>
>         > >> ;)
>         > >>
>         > >> I use a propane torch (like you use for plumbing at home) to heat the
>         > >> metal til it's red-orange in colour. It helps to have lower lighting
>         > >> to see the colour change though safety first right?
>         > >>
>         > >> With copper or brass, you can cool it down with water or air cool.
>         > >> Seems to make no difference. (other than any possible water spatter)
>         > >>
>         > >> Annealing = making metal softer. Working it will harden it.
>         > >>
>         > >> I don't recall exactly what I did to expand the piece but I either:
>         > >>
>         > >> used a socket on 1/2" extension in vice as mandrel, slipped piece on,
>         > >> hit it with a hammer making sure the mandrel was "backing it up" at
>         > >> all times. This spreads the metal. Or.....
>         > >>
>         > >> Pounded a suitably sized sockets through the pipe bit thus expanding it.
>         > >>
>         > >> Thinking now, maybe this isn't an evermans solution, but, well, there
>         > >> ya go. I've had some experience shaping brass (dent removal etc.) so
>         > >> this wasn't foreign to me. The ID is close so it didn't take much to
>         > >> get it to fit over the push arm.
>         > >>
>         > >> That 5 min. LePage epoxy didn't hold that great. But the piece is more
>         > >> or less held in place by the arms where they pivot.
>         > >>
>         > >> Neil.
>         > >>
>         > >>
>         > >>
>         > >> On Sun, May 29, 2011 at 9:14 PM, Rocket J Squirrel
>         > >> <camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:
>         > >>> "Embiggen" is a perfectly cromulent word.
>         > >>>
>         > >>> On that page, you wrote, "Bushing: 3/4" pipe. Annealed, expanded a little
>         > >>> w/normal hand tools."
>         > >>>
>         > >>> What, pray tell, hand tools does one use to expand 3/4'' pipe? And
>         > >>> annealing
>         > >>> . . . this is a process involving a leather blacksmith apron, asbestos
>         > >>> gloves, goggles with smoked lenses, and a small boy pulling on a bellows
>         > >>> --
>         > >>> right?
>         > >>>
>         > >>
>         > >>
>         > >
>         > >
>         > >
>         > >
>         >
>         >
>         >
>
>
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
>
>