On Thu, Jun 2, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:

> I advise against turning rotors when replacing pads, unless there's a
> problem with the rotors. Even then it is usually only marginally more
> expensive to replace them.   Rotors need to be as thick as possible to
> handle thermal loading. The rotor surface needs to b cleaned instead.
>
> Chris.
>
> Wysłane z iPhone'a
>

  Also, be advised the brakes, for a  short time after you first change the
pads to new, will not work predictably.  So don't just rip out of the
driveway and speed down the block to the stopsign and expect to stop
perfectly...until your brakes 'bed-in'.  A dozen or so moderate stops should
do it.

   I wouldn't mess with the bleeder screws unless you are actually going to
bleed the brakes or change the fluid.  Those bleeder fittings are a possible
source of unanticipated problems.  It's easy to screw up messing with
those...You can  let air into the lines or break the bleeder valve right
off, if you do anything a little wrong.  You can get grit into the system
there also.
 Just pushing the pistons "back"  to fit in full-thickness new pads won't
'pollute' your master cylinder.
  I, too, like to use just a little high temp anti-seize compound on the
edges of my brake pads to ensure they can 'center' themselves properly in
the calipers.  I have also found, a few times, that the pad backing plates
are poorly made, leaving rough spots along the edges as they are stamped
out.  It is worth a look before you install pads to see that the edges are
OK.  Keep your fingers off the rotor surface.
  As Scott says, "details" are important.  Brakes are a pretty crude
system...nothing 'refined' or complicated, but every part has to be right,
or you can die.