Do you think he got the coolant type that he asked them to put in  Ken ?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Wilford" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Botched Coolant Flush Implications?

> Wes, if you weren't seeing any high temperatures on your trip then the
> engine is fine.  The nice part about the 2.1l coolant system is that it
> will self bleed over the course of a few days.  Probably there was some
> air trapped in the system that the shop didn't get out but if your
> heater was working the heads were never uncovered so no damage could
> occur (front heater core is higher than the heads so if it has coolant
> then the head definitely did.
>
> I would just top off the bottle with the pressure cap on it (to the left
> in the engine bay).  Fill it all the way to the top.  Then fill the one
> behind the license plate door to full and keep an eye on it over the
> course of the next couple of days.  If they both stay full then you are
> fine and no further bleeding is required.  It may still burp a few more
> times but as long as the pressure bottle is full, just top off the non
> pressure tank until the system level stabilizes.  I would check the
> level when everything is cold first thing in the morning just so your
> readings are consistent and you can top things off without worrying
> about getting burnt by hot coolant.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
> Phone: 856-327-4936
> Fax: 856-327-2242
>
>
>
> On 6/15/2011 1:57 PM, Wes Neuenschwander wrote:
>> I recently had the coolant system flushed and coolant replaced in my '91
>> Westy at a local independent VW service place.  I have about 15,000 miles
>> on
>> my rebuilt (GoWesty 2.3 liter) engine.  When I got the vehicle back, the
>> coolant in the reservoir (non-pressurized tank) was at the 'full' line.
>> After driving the vehicle about 100 miles, I noticed the heater didn't
>> seem
>> to be heating fully.  After I opened the heater valve 100% for a few
>> miles,
>> the heater function seemed to be restored, providing well modulated
>> heating
>> over the full range of the heater valve settings.  Engine temperature -
>> or
>> rather coolant temperature - was normal the entire trip (consistently
>> mid-point on the coolant temp gauge, just as before the coolant flush).
>>
>> However when I got home from the trip (about 500 miles, including some NW
>> Washington mountain passes, I noticed that the reservoir was empty
>> (didn't
>> check the pressurized tank, alas).  I refilled the reservoir and after
>> running the engine a few times during short day trips around town, both
>> the
>> reservoir and pressurized tank levels are normal (pressurized tank is
>> full
>> and the reservoir is at the mid-full mark).
>>
>> There is no evidence of leaking coolant - anywhere.  My guess is that the
>> air was not fully purged from the coolant system following the
>> flush/refill
>> operation (perhaps, at least in part, due to air trapped in the heater
>> lines
>> and/or heater core).
>>
>> Two questions:
>>
>> 1)      What do I need to do (if anything) to ensure the system is fully
>> purged now?
>> 2)      What possible adverse effects might there have been from having
>> an
>> incompletely purged coolant system on a drive like this (including some
>> full-throttle periods over the mountain passes)?  In particular, of
>> course,
>> is it likely that I might have damaged or otherwise compromised those
>> infamous waterboxer cylinder heads??
>>
>> Also, a corollary question:  I clearly specified that the replacement
>> antifreeze must be Volkswagen brand only (in the past, I've had shops use
>> 'house brand' coolants - i.e. whatever the local tech/guru thought was
>> best).  How can I verify that the antifreeze used was genuine VW and not
>> some off-brand?
>>
>> -Wes
>>