

| Subject: | Re: Refrigerator lighting |
| From: | ralph meyermann |
| Date: | Thu, 1 Sep 2011 11:12:01 -0600 |
Mine wouldn't light after the body and paint work i took off the outer cover and used an air gun to blow out the ventilation tubes and it seems to be fine again On Sep 1, 2011 12:07 PM, "Marius Strom" <marstrom@microsoft.com> wrote: My experience: Bought my rig in March 2010, so I'm a relative newcomer. It's the 182B, non-auto-igniter one that came on my '88 Westy. Always worked well on 120V and pretty well on 12V, but was completely unable to get it to light on Propane. Removed fridge, cleaned out burner box (which was actually pretty clean), and replaced the air check valve. The GoWesty instructions that came with the new check valve said to put the new one on the line, but said nothing about pulling the old in-line one out. I pulled the old one out, and could not get air to move through it in either direction. It was definitely dead, and I see this is a glaring omission in the GW instructions. Since replacing the check valve, I've been able to light my fridge within 2 minutes every time I've used it. Some say it helps to have it pre-cooled before lighting it, but I'm not sure. Mine now seems to light easily whether the fridge is below freezing (on 120V overnight) or whether the bus has been sitting in the sun all day and has a 100 degree fridge temperature. Lights right up. Moral of the story for me: replace that blasted check valve, and make sure you pull the old one out. I wish I had taken photos when I did it, cause the original in-line one is actually inside the hose and I bet most people don't spot it or remove it, which does a fat-lot-of-good when you put the new one on there. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf ... Subject: Re: Refrigerator lighting I think Don is onto something here. Perhaps it's all part of the...
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