

| Subject: | Re: Headlight Upgrade Eilemma |
| From: | Alistair Bell |
| Date: | Fri, 9 Sep 2011 09:05:10 -0700 |
John, here is the list I sent yesterday, does it not make sense to you which terminals have power at what conditions? alistair > > So here is what I think they do, open to corrections: > > G1& G3 - X-bus controlled power > G2& G5 #15, ign. switched power via fuse S18 > G4 - D+ (alternator trigger circuit) via dash alt. led > G6 - dead end > G7 - power with headlight on > G8 - dimmer controlled panel lighting power > G9 - license plate lights circuit, via fuse S20 > G10 - hot when windscreen washer runs (used for headlight washer) > > > and the M terminals below > > M1 - tied to G7 > M2 - power when low beams on > > > This is for my '86 syncro passenger van. On 2011-09-09, at 8:53 AM, John Rodgers wrote: > Mark, > > I note several unused pins on the "G" panel on the fuseblock. What are > they used for? Might one of these work for my wire. The wire connects > to the supply side of the relay - or relay pin 87. > > Thanks, > > John . > > John Rodgers > Clayartist and Moldmaker > 88'GL VW Bus Driver > Chelsea, AL > Http://www.moldhaus.com > > > On 9/9/2011 9:30 AM, mark drillock wrote: >> Maybe it already has headlight relays installed? >> >> There are 7 P connections. 2 are always used by the base vehicle. >> >> That leaves 5 for options/expansion. >> power windows use 1 >> power locks use 1 >> gas fired heater uses 1 (rare) >> typical headlight relay kit uses 2 >> >> Is the other larger .375" P spade available? >> If so, put a bigger end on your new wire and use it. >> >> Mark >> >> John Rodgers wrote: >>> I was going to upgrade my headlight circuits with headlight relays to >>> handle new higher wattage lights. Part of this requires cutting some >>> wires and these wires are clearly identified in the instructions. When I >>> went to do this, and removed the steering column cover to better see >>> what I was doing, I discovered a rat's net of wires where the PO had >>> done a whole lot of upgrading for himself. There is no way for me to >>> identify all those wires making the install non-compatible. So, what >>> to do? >>> >>> I decided to use the TJ Hannick approach, using 30 amp relay mounted on >>> the dash fascia on the left side of the insturment pod and under the >>> instrument pod cover. Four wires, no cutting, plug and play - Right? >>> Wrong!!! >>> >>> The first three wires to the relay were a snap. But the fourth - the one >>> that powers the control circuit inside the relay - the fourth one is to >>> be plugged into the "P" panel on the back side of the fuse block. Once >>> that last wire is connected - the light would/should work. Well, no >>> joy!! I dropped the fuse block, only to discover that the "P" panel >>> looked like a Christmas tree loaded with ornaments. The PO in his >>> rewiring, had used all 6 output pins and had put extenders on them, >>> increasing their ability to carry more connectors with wires. But to the >>> detriment of adding anything else at all!!! >>> >>> My question here is - where else can I connect to pull power for getting >>> the relay to work. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> John >>> >>> -- John Rodgers Clayartist and Moldmaker 88'GL VW Bus Driver Chelsea, AL >>> Http://www.moldhaus.com >>> >> >>
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