Not exactly.

When looking at the Bentley 97.119   image 97.1392 what is the pin
numbering sequence?

I assume:

1>2
3>4
5>6
etc.

If so, Pins 1>2 & 3 are occupied. The rest have nothing connected.

John

John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com

On 9/9/2011 11:05 AM, Alistair Bell wrote:
> John,
>
> here is the list I sent yesterday, does it not make sense to you which terminals have power at what conditions?
>
> alistair
>
>
>> So here is what I think they do, open to corrections:
>>
>> G1&   G3 - X-bus controlled power
>> G2&   G5 #15, ign. switched power via fuse S18
>> G4 - D+ (alternator trigger circuit) via dash alt. led
>> G6 - dead end
>> G7 - power with headlight on
>> G8 - dimmer controlled panel lighting power
>> G9 - license plate lights circuit, via fuse S20
>> G10 - hot when windscreen washer runs (used for headlight washer)
>>
>>
>> and the M terminals below
>>
>> M1 - tied to G7
>> M2 - power when low beams on
>>
>>
>> This is for my '86 syncro passenger van.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2011-09-09, at 8:53 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
>> Mark,
>>
>> I note several unused pins on the "G" panel on the fuseblock. What are
>> they used for? Might one of these work for my wire. The wire connects
>> to  the supply side of the relay - or relay pin 87.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John .
>>
>> John Rodgers
>> Clayartist and Moldmaker
>> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
>> Chelsea, AL
>> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>>
>>
>> On 9/9/2011 9:30 AM, mark drillock wrote:
>>> Maybe it already has headlight relays installed?
>>>
>>> There are 7 P connections. 2 are always used by the base vehicle.
>>>
>>> That leaves 5 for options/expansion.
>>>   power windows use 1
>>>   power locks use 1
>>>   gas fired heater uses 1 (rare)
>>>   typical headlight relay kit uses 2
>>>
>>> Is the other larger .375" P spade available?
>>> If so, put a bigger end on your new wire and use it.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> John Rodgers wrote:
>>>> I was going to upgrade my headlight circuits with headlight relays to
>>>> handle new higher wattage lights. Part of this requires cutting some
>>>> wires and these wires are clearly identified in the instructions. When I
>>>> went to do this, and removed the steering column cover to better see
>>>> what I was doing, I discovered a rat's net of wires where the PO had
>>>> done a whole lot of upgrading for himself. There is no way for me to
>>>> identify all those wires making the install non-compatible. So, what
>>>> to do?
>>>>
>>>> I decided to use the TJ Hannick approach, using 30 amp relay mounted on
>>>> the dash fascia on the left side of the insturment pod and under the
>>>> instrument pod cover. Four wires, no cutting, plug and play - Right?
>>>> Wrong!!!
>>>>
>>>> The first three wires to the relay were a snap. But the fourth - the one
>>>> that powers the control circuit inside the relay - the fourth one is to
>>>> be plugged into the "P" panel on the back side of the fuse block. Once
>>>> that last wire is connected - the light would/should work. Well, no
>>>> joy!! I dropped the fuse block, only to discover that the "P" panel
>>>> looked like a Christmas tree loaded with ornaments. The PO in his
>>>> rewiring, had used all 6 output pins and had put extenders on them,
>>>> increasing their ability to carry more connectors with wires. But to the
>>>> detriment of adding anything else at all!!!
>>>>
>>>> My question here is - where else can I connect to pull power for getting
>>>> the relay to work.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>> -- John Rodgers Clayartist and Moldmaker 88'GL VW Bus Driver Chelsea, AL
>>>> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>>>>
>>>
>