Does the height of the riser nuts have an effect if they're eliminated? I
guess they just meet up flush with the wood floor though.
So you just start with a piece of Luan cut to fill the passanger
compartment, then drill accordingly as you install? Do you remove the GL
factory foam sound deadening floor stuff or lay the Luan ontop of that?

-Craig

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 9:09 AM, mark drillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:

> You can install all the interior items to the floor with just bolts and
> nuts. I have done so several times. I use locknuts so they don't have to be
> tightened to the point that anything is deformed. I don't use the stock
> under cabinet floor pieces but cut my own from luan, a soft thin plywood.
> The rear bed hinge strap screws can be done with nuts too, even the one you
> think is blocked by the Syncro tank, that isn't really blocked.
>
> The metal of the passenger van floor has small factory dimples marking the
> center of the holes needed by the water tank, etc. They don't look very
> obvious until you lay the original floor pieces inside a passenger van and
> then they jump out at you. I use holes saws, started in the dimples.
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> craig cowan wrote:
>
>> Apparently they're just supposed to be self tapping screws, so I should be
>> fine on that.
>> My last conversion I installed the single giant wooden floor piece below
>> the
>> entire kitchen/floor. This is very inconvenient as it means removing the
>> ENTIRE interior from both busses before any reassembly can begin. Is this
>> necessary? I'm hearing now that it may be possible to do without this
>> piece?
>>
>> I don't want to install the riser/nuts that were welded in at the factory.
>> Has anyone had success with just putting long bolts/nuts through instead?
>> The ones I speak of hold the seat down and the kitchen unit.
>>
>>
>>