-i reused the pressboard under the seat. This raises the seat to the right height. I did not weld in risers, but used through bolts  at the same spots (caulking the hole) where I could. It doesn't work in some locations, I can't recall off hand what is interfering, but the seat seems well secured as is.
- the two metal straps that are part of the bed mechanism and are screwed to the engine deck area - I tapped some stainless steel backing plates and used polyurethane caulk to hold them to the underside of the engine deck. The area is accessible from the wheel wells.  The sheet metal of the deck is not thick enough to be used alone.
-kitchen unit - there is a stock pressboard spacer under there too. It has holes in it for the propane lines and the sink drain line. Again it positions the cabinets to the right height. In the factory set up there is one, or is it two? threaded risers welded to the floor just as there was under the rear seat. I used through bolts. 
-for the main floor you can either make it one piece or 3 peice (with tracks). In any case the plywood sits on the metal, not the GL foam (the foam would raise floor too high).

alistair

On 2011-09-26, at 5:10 AM, craig cowan wrote:

> Apparently they're just supposed to be self tapping screws, so I should be
> fine on that.
> My last conversion I installed the single giant wooden floor piece below the
> entire kitchen/floor. This is very inconvenient as it means removing the
> ENTIRE interior from both busses before any reassembly can begin. Is this
> necessary? I'm hearing now that it may be possible to do without this
> piece?
> 
> I don't want to install the riser/nuts that were welded in at the factory.
> Has anyone had success with just putting long bolts/nuts through instead?
> The ones I speak of hold the seat down and the kitchen unit.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Craig