My interior is already out of a westy and into an '85 GL. So in theory, it
will transfer over from the '85 to the '87 directly. I just hate the idea of
taking it ALL out to get the floor in first. The first time I did it in the
'85 I just used the factory plywood. You guys are proposing Luan in addition
to plywood..... interesting.
I may just sound deaden the whole floor then put the plywood atop that.
Atop it all will be hardwood floors though, so deformation is not as much of
a concern.

I like the idea of not welding in the riser nuts. I'll just stack washers
and use a bolt.

-Craig

On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 12:51 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Couple of more things:
>
> - to reiterate on what I did with the main floor area. I cut the original
> westy plywood floor into 3 (not equal widths, widths determined by seat
> track layout) and I faced the ply with 1/8" luan door skins, shellacked.
> This was a cheap and expedient route and I am surprised it lasted so well
> (11 years and counting). I had originally wanted to face with thin cork
> flooring material. I have a closed cell foam pad on top of the floor, and a
> removable carpet on top of that. The foam ( interlocking squares found at
> home depot) makes a very nice cushioned floor, appreciated when kneeling.
> The foam and carpet come out in a trice for cleaning.
>
> - Mark's comments on fitting the rear seat to the sloped surface of the van
> engine compartment is very true. I found that the bitumen based stuff cuts
> easily with utility knife and peels off. I removed it on the areas where the
> steel straps lie, and also where the edge of the seat butts against the
> slope rather than trimming the seat box.
>
> - I relocated the ECU to the driver's side of the seat box
>
> - I had installed a rear heater in my '82 westy , but rather than the vent
> opening in the middle of the face, I had moved it over to the pass. side as
> far as I could. I had to relocate the syncro heater to the same place when I
> installed the modified seat box. This meant splicing in more wire for the
> heater but the pressed wood subfloor under the box allowed me to cut a
> wiring chase and lead the wires to the new position without pinching them.
>
> alistair
>
>
>
>
> On 2011-09-26, at 8:50 AM, mark drillock wrote:
>
> > You have to figure out what you want to do for a main floor finished
> > surface. The Luan is used as a soft filler that deforms to the
> > mismatched surfaces and cuts down on noise. As Alistair said the floor
> > foam needs to go, at least under the cabinets. The Luan can cover the
> > whole floor as an underpayment but it is not strong enough by itself to
> > cover the spaces between the floor ribs in the main area after the foam
> > is removed. If you don't plain a second solid floor layer above the Luan
> > you will need to have filler strips between the floor ribs in the area
> > not under cabinets. Or use the soft Luan just under the cabinets and a
> > stronger type of plywood in the main floor area.
> >
> > There is often some minor interference where the bed/seat box assembly
> > is contoured for the sloped metal body area under the rear bench. Expect
> > to trim some small spots of the wood so the bed box sits right. The
> > passenger body has sound dampening pads stuck to it that can keep the
> > wood box from fitting exactly as intended. Trim the wood as needed where
> > those contact points are a problem.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > craig cowan wrote:
> >> Does the height of the riser nuts have an effect if they're eliminated?
> I
> >> guess they just meet up flush with the wood floor though.
> >> So you just start with a piece of Luan cut to fill the passanger
> >> compartment, then drill accordingly as you install? Do you remove the GL
> >> factory foam sound deadening floor stuff or lay the Luan ontop of that?
> >>
> >> -Craig
> >>
>