I understand the reluctance to move the cabinets more than necessary. Mind you I had the cabinets in and out over and over during the process of fitting. One suggestion is to make one cabinet the fixed ref point. I chose the sink unit as it was constrained at the front by the wheel well, and to the outside by the wall. Having that unit pushed in and secured firmly made aligning the next section and the wardrobe easy. 

So to be clear here, you are not putting in the tracks for a middle seat, right? And that the entire floor can be thought of as 3 areas: main section where you stand (can be one piece or 3 with tracks), the spacer under the cabinets, and the spacer under the rear seat box. I used 1/8" luan to face the exposed floor, not to use as the floor proper.
The wooden floor(s) can be laid directly on the ribbed metal van floor, but they should all be the same thickness. On my '82 I laid down some peel and seal stuff on the metal. 

Adding thickness to the floor/subfloor should be considered carefully or else the seat and the kitchen cabinets won't line up, and the kitchen cabinets won't line up with the wardrobe. And the metal straps won't lay on the engine deck correctly.

alistair

On 2011-09-26, at 10:13 AM, craig cowan wrote:

> My interior is already out of a westy and into an '85 GL. So in theory, it will transfer over from the '85 to the '87 directly. I just hate the idea of taking it ALL out to get the floor in first. The first time I did it in the '85 I just used the factory plywood. You guys are proposing Luan in addition to plywood..... interesting.
> I may just sound deaden the whole floor then put the plywood atop that. 
> Atop it all will be hardwood floors though, so deformation is not as much of a concern.
> 
> I like the idea of not welding in the riser nuts. I'll just stack washers and use a bolt.
> 
> -Craig