I would go to the fuse box area next.
You should also know that there are circuits that are not fuse protected.

for example......anything to do with the main charging wire from alternator
to starter/battery.

The igntion circuit is not fuse-protected either.
be extra careful undoing wires at the back side of the fuse box..
draw yourself a map/diagram before removing more than one wire.
Take pictures, etc.

the test light in series with the negative cable is fine.
Same results with doing in series with the positive cable too.
"It's just a leakage or blockage of fluids or electrons."

scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Courtney Hook" <courtneyhook@SHAW.CA>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 12:52 PM
Subject: Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy

OK, so something is def. not good here. I wasn't getting anywhere with the
multimeter, so I tried the other method which someone forwarded to me, I put
a 12v light between the negative cable and negative post with everything
turned off. The light came on. This is supposed to indicate a current draw.
I then proceeded to remove the fuses one by one to see which circuit the
light went out on. It didn't go out at all. I even removed the backup, gas
heater, and 2 other 30 amp fuses on my Westy. Light still stayed on. I took
off the positive cable and removed the red + wire to the VW diagnostic plug
at the back thinking it might be grounding, along with the other factory
small +ve wire on the +ve cable that heads off into the wiring harness, then
sat +ve cable back on the post. The light still stayed on.
Where else can I check? I have removed every fuse in the van. Would REALLY
appreciate some pro help here. I'm losing about 0.3 volts over a 16hr
period.
Thanks,
Courtney