The cracks between cylinders won't bother you as described. Do the valves and seats need regrinding? Are the valve guides within specs? These are the things that matter most, and a visual inspection doesn't address them. Take them to a machine shop that specializes in reconditioning heads so you won't be gambling. 

Jim

On Nov 27, 2011, at 8:27 PM, Gregg Carlen <gregg.carlen@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> Hey folks,
> 
> I'm looking for some advice about reusing the head I just removed from my
> 2.1l (1990 Westy 2WD). 185k on the engine and the heads and engine have
> never been rebuilt as far as I know.
> 
> The PO had been running the incorrect coolant, which I changed out this
> past summer with Sierra, however, it was too late. Had a slow head leak
> (more like seeping through the gasket) starting already. Finally got around
> to pulling the head this past weekend to prepare for a gasket replacement
> (and green o-rings on the cylinders, all other usual gaskets replaced,
> etc).
> 
> When I pulled the head, I was initially pleased with the condition.
> However, upon closer inspection, I notice a few things that make me wonder
> if I can re-use the head as-is, make a few repairs, or have to replace it.
> This is the passenger side head.
> 
> My initial observations were:
> - the gasket surface was in very good condition. Only a few small spots of
> the slightest pitting.
> - The oil cavities only had the slightest tarnish from oil. Wiping with a
> cloth removed it.
> - All of the coolant and oil cavities seemed to be clear and clean.
> - There was only the slightest bit of carbon in the combustion chambers.
> - The head gasket was the source of the leak, not corrosion on the head's
> mating surface. - - The gasket had essentially turned to putty and started
> to deteriorate and like an old sponge (I could see the 'spongy' look from
> the outside before I pulled the head).
> 
> Upon closer inspection, there were a few areas of concern I noticed:
> - Between one pair of intake/exhaust valves, was a very small crack. I'd
> say it's not quite wide enough to insert the edge of a piece of paper.
> - Between the other pair of valves, I noticed a hairline fracture if I look
> at it from just the right angle. Not a crack, just a fracture.
> - Lastly, the contact surfaces between the valve adjustment screws and
> valves looked good, with the exception of one. The contact surface between
> one exhaust valve and the adjustment screw had lost its original shape just
> slightly. Almost didn't notice it at first. The adjustment screw has the
> slightest mushroom effect on it and the contact surface of the valve end
> isn't mushroomed, but doesn't have the crisp edges like the other 3 valves
> do.
> 
> So, all that being said, I'm thinking I'm okay to clean it up and
> re-install (I hadn't removed the valves and wasn't really planning to). I
> am, however, a little concerned about the 'almost mushroomed' valve end and
> adjustment screw. I'm going to replace the adjustment screw since its a
> simple thing to do, but wondering what would cause this condition to occur
> in the first place.
> 
> In the back of my mind, I wonder if the crack (and hairline fracture)
> between the valves will get worse and make the head unusable and have to do
> the job again (I'd prefer not to spend another $500 on a new head). Or, is
> the almost-mushroomed valve going to cause a problem (or be a sign of
> future impending doom)? I hadn't experienced any valve tapping in the past.
> Given that this head gasket leaked, am I just avoiding the other side? (I
> did notice this head leak was a 'seeping' leak whereas the other head is
> bone dry.
> 
> Thoughts? Comments? Advice?
> 
> Gregg
> 90 Westy (BlueBerry)