At 02:50 PM 12/4/2011, J Stewart wrote:
>cluster and managed to break it, but not so bad that I couldn't
>reuse it. So, now I have a tach, temp gauge, fuel gauge and a
>constantly blinking coolant light. Oh, one

Check that you're getting ten volts +/- 0.5 between the ground pin on
the temp gauge (the skinny one) and whichever of the others gives you
a higher reading.  If not then it's the voltage regulator on the
panel, bad panel supply or bad panel ground.  Otherwise...

You may find you can swap the gauges between clusters.  If not,
you'll need to fix or have fixed the 10 uF 16v capacitor inside the
gauge.  John Meeks' Vanagonaut site has a writeup on doing it from
the front of the gauge, may not be practical on all variations of
gauge.  I think it's easier to take off the gauge face and circuit
board and work from inside.  Lots of stuff here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=353678&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=f69126fb45bc7732aa98f13af90daa8f

about what's actually happening and how to make sure it is, lots of
extraneous stuff to wade through.  I can fix the cap and check the
gauge calibration if you need, and also put in a brighter LED if you
like (more money as it's not trivial).  Pmail me if you want to go that way.

To forestall another email, I disagree with Don Hanson's opinion that
a working overheat/low-coolant LED isn't worth the trouble.

Yours,
David