Thanks, John, Jason, David and Scott. This is the info I was looking 
for.
I found Dennis' comment to be pretty snarky-sounding, having a bad day, 
fella?

   I did find the poly-coated 25' coil at NAPA for $23 (on sale right 
now) and the ends are 1.69 each, but the top quality ISO flare tool they 
sell is $97 with lifetime warr.  I have done complete Beetle brake lines 
for years, and those kits are cheap and readily available, but I have 
very little experience doing Vanagon lines.  No kits available, no parts 
vendors selling so much as a single hard line, no descriptions online 
(with the exception of the wiki one that I finally found last night) 
The one on BTDT is just plain wrong and dangerous; using compression 
fittings at each end to avoid flaring is horrible advice and won't pass 
any state safety inspection using brass compression unions.  That one 
needs to be replaced with a better one that's got more detailed info and 
uses legal and proper methods.
   I'll look into the Carquest 30' coil of copper alloy stuff, but if 
it's way more expensive, I'll just stay with the Napa coated line.  I 
appears that I'll be needing 30' either way, but NAPA also sells coated 
pre made lines in various lengths to make up for what's needed.  I like 
the idea of not using any unions anywhere, if possible, but if it's more 
practical for installation ease, I will do one.  The 2 tee's are the 
same as a Beetle tee and are not expensive.  The flex hose clips are 
also the same as Beetle parts.  The rear bleed screws seem to be the 
same as Beetle parts also (one of mine is rusted badly but works using 
vise grips).   The flex lines are cheap enough at a couple of the parts 
vendors.
   I just finished water pump, engine bay coolant hoses, fuel lines, gas 
tank reseal and a new steel power steering pressure line, so the brake 
lines are next on the agenda, out of necessity!
   My Motive pressure bleeder needs a new line now after it doused my 
dash with brake fluid while I was under the van wrestling with the 
bleeders doing a flush.  That fluid was very dark, so I may need to do 
rear wheels cylinders soon, but the front calipers are new.  The master 
cyl is original but works fine and no leaks yet so it's in the plan, but 
I'm shopping around for one now.

Thanks, Mike B.

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 10:04 PM, John Meeks wrote:

  Sent that last from my phone. DOH!  

The rest of the message:
Get your tubing, nuts, a couple of T fittings and remove, bend and flare 
one piece at a time. Easist way to get the job done. Do use the alloy. 
Mine have two winters in the salt with no sign of degrading.

John Meeks
'91 Vanagon MV
Northern Michigan

Vanagon Rescue Squad
www.vanagonauts.com <http://www.vanagonauts.com>

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 9:57 PM, John Meeks < vanagon@gmail.com 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')> > 
wrote:
Mike,  <javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
Speech to text makes for some entertaining reading. 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
If you drive salty roads I highly recommend a copper nickel ferrous 
alloy tubing. Easy to bend and flare and will amaze you with it's 
resistance to road salt. 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
I got a 30' roll from a carquest flaps.
Fedhill is more expensive but they will lend you a nice expensive bubble 
flare tool. 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
Get your tubing, nuts 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
 I checked the beach I checked the van to get laid and thebomb.com 
<http://thebomb.com> I can't find any procedure for brake line 
replacement I need to know how long each line is so I can buy enough 
brake line oil to replace all my line on my 1987 westy if any of this 
sounds funny it's because I'm using my voice on my verizon Wireless not 
sosmartphone  <http://thebomb.com>
  <http://thebomb.com>