As another possibility I had a van towed in with all of these symptoms.
Since it was a running engine my first thought was broken stud. None found.
In fact all were at torque. Compression and leak down poor on cylinders 1
and 2. #1 intake valve leaking bad. I am suspecting a cracked head.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Gregg Carlen [mailto:gregg.carlen@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 6:56 PM
To: Dennis Haynes
Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject: Re: Smoke after head replacement

On Jan 14, 2012, at 5:51 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Let's be sure we are referring to the cylinders correctly as #1 and #3
> are not on the same head. #1 and #2 are on the right side.  #3 and #4
> are on the left.  #1 and #3 are front opposite.

I pulled the passenger-side head only (this is the one with a coolant leak
from the water gasket), so left side of engine would be #'s 3 & 4, right?

> For the intake valve #3 leaking is most likely due to bad valve or worn
guide.

When I pulled the head, I wasn't experiencing any other symptoms other than
the water gasket leaking. Could a valve/guide problem developed while I was
handling the head? (I didn't remove the valves).

> or the base of the cylinders.
> Did you use a torque wrench?

Yes, used a torque wrench. My concern when reinstalling the head was the
lower part of the head made contact with the water gasket/case much earlier
than the top half (bottom made contact with 1/4 or so gap still open at the
top side).

The other thing I can think of is when I moved ( but did not take off), the
cylinders, is that I disturbed the black o-ring enough to compromise the
seal.

I'm also wondering if the air getting past the intake valves is from me
improperly doing the leak down test (pistons were at the top of the stroke).
I didn't adjust the valves yet, so thinking that could attribute to intake
valves being open too long.