I've said this�scores of times, smart people believe me, those looking to save $50 in exchange for a couple hours of hard labor and a likely inferior result don't.� Call around, find a radiator shop that will do it reasonably, or just get a new tank.� And I've cleaned at least 10, everything from Corvair, to Type1, to several baywindow tanks before I realized this.� I've sealed using POR, Hirsch, Eastwood kits over the years, using steel shot for heavily rusted, the whole bit.� It just isn't worth the effort IF you can find a reasonable $$ place.� In fact the last 2 tanks I've cleaned have�been good ASME stamped air compressor tanks not gas tanks that shops wouldn't deal with (weight), the only reason I did them.� In WV a good radiator place, even just 5 years ago would charge $75 to clean, another $25 to coat/seal.� I've been told they are up to about $125 now though, I haven't looked in AK for someone yet.� On type2 we had the discussion last
 year and local prices were all over the place from $75 still to over $250.� POR wants $75 for their full restore kit, you do the math for what your time is worth.� To me not worth the aggravation.
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Now furthermore on a Vanagon tank if you go with sealer, you would need to be very careful with the pickup.� If only slight surface rust you could get by without sealing, but it is likely coming back.� The final bit to worry about sealer is of course that 10 years on, you never know what gas will do to it.� The stuff we were using in the 80's dissolves with modern fuel, nothing to say the same won't hold true again.� For a vanagon, are tanks really that hard to find? I think I still have 2-3 perfect ones sitting in a storage van in WV, plus aren't they only about $150 new?
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Anyway people will go on and on about how easy it is to do, blah, blah, blah.� For my time and money if I could get it cleaned by a pro for $75, vs even $30-40 in chemicals to clean even if I weren't sealing it, I'd spend the extra.� In point of fact considering the time to get a Vanagon tank out, money for new grommets, getting that damn cross vent back in and secured in it's clip right, all the little damn expansion lines, etc, I'd pop the $150 for the new tank or only use a perfect condition used one.
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I like using the square as prefilter and putting in a high pressure filter after the pump, though in reality I don't know why I do it.� Won't effect pressure as long as flow remains good (as long as it doesn't get clogged.)
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YMMV.
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John

----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Torrella ttorrella4@COMCAST.NET
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1. What is the best solution to clean the insides of a gasoline tank? So far no major chunks of rust, or leaks. 

2. After cleaning, how effective would a rubberized liner applied inside work?

The process purposed is an acid bath, rinse bath to neutralize, then treated with a blue liner for about the cost of a new tank.