I recently replaced my stock system and was puzzled by the arrangement that I hope is illustrated clearly below.� I expected from previous reading to find studs in each position but found them alternating.� Imagine you're looking down at the engine from the hatch opening with the front of the engine at the front of the van.

#3 LF studs � #1 RF bolts

#4 LR bolts �� #2 RR studs

On each of the ports using bolts it was the upper bolt that snapped on removal.� I got one out (#1) with heat, PB Blaster and a pipe wrench but the other (#4) required head removal and a machine shop.� Since there's a crossover pipe connecting #1 and #3 cylinders and a second pipe connecting #2 and #4. there's really no "stretching" to be done in order to get things to fit.� The first pipe fits across the front of the engine and the second fits across the rear.

I would prefer any arrangement that guarantees painless and easy removal and would have used bolts at each point, but did not replace what did not break so went back to the standard setup of studs/bolts.� I really would have liked to have had my new system ceramic coated for longevity but time and budget did not permit that. I did use the copper nuts, stainless bolts and antiseize on all threads to help in the future.� I hope you do not have as deep and meainingful an experience with your system as I had but you will find it instructional in any case.� Good luck!

Stephen

--- On Sat, 2/4/12, Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: exhaust studs/bolts
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Saturday, February 4, 2012, 8:08 PM

I'll second what Craig said, all of it.
� It seem to me that it becomes mathematically impossible to put a
header on if you use studs at both ends.� Unless you're willing to
stretch it more than I would.

Larry A.