Dear Dennis,
As always, immensely helpful.  Can't thank you enough!  Looks like we will be heading to the Grand Canyon at the end of the week after all�
Best,
Finn
On Mar 19, 2012, at 7:09 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:

> VW did not always use self-adjusting drum brakes. On the non-self-adjusting
> versions  the lower shoe rests were the adjusters. There was a star wheel,
> (nut) (113609205) and the slotted post (pin) (211609279) and two holes in
> the backing plate that allowed you to reach in with a screwdriver to make
> adjustments. This was regular maintenance. So as the shoes wore the bottoms
> were adjusted out to compensate so with regular care the entire shoe was
> worn and the entire friction surface was used.  Most American cars with
> self-adjusting brakes use various methods to work the same way. VW decided
> to go the way of placing the adjusting mechanism as the same end as the
> cylinders. It should be noted that most air brake drum set ups on trucks
> work the same way, (slack adjusters).
> 
> 
> 
> Now this works well if everything is the proper dimensions, especially the
> match between drum diameter and shoe thickness. A problem is that I have yet
> to find replacement brake shoes that have the proper pad thickness or a
> satisfactory material. For years I went to the dealer and got the OEM shoe
> sets but they are no longer available. The original shoe linings were
> riveted, metallic, high friction linings with a thickness of 6mm. The
> aftermarket shoes are only 4mm and the linings are soft. It is also common
> for some shoes to have the linings reversed (leading-trailing) or on the
> shoe in the wrong place. Shimming the bottom compensates for the thinner
> linings. This can also compensate for worn drums. The nuts and pins I
> mentioned above will fit perfectly on the Vanagon if you want to add
> adjustability. Since there are no detent springs to keep them from turning I
> do not know if that could be a problem so I use shims. 2-3mm on each shoes
> is a very good starting point.
> 
> 
> 
> As these are self-adjusting brakes, I do not do any fine adjustment before
> placing the drums. I want to know the self-adjusters work.  I want to hear
> them click!
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted in the past instructions for installing and setting up the
> rear brakes. There are a few details that are critical.
> 
> The top springs have to be in the correct position, center hooks face up.
> Otherwise they will hit the adjuster nut.
> 
> The pushrod thread has to be able to turn freely. No grease or anti-seize. A
> dry lube like lock-ease.
> 
> The handbrake cable needs to be properly adjusted. This cannot be done with
> the drum in place. You need to see the lever.
> 
> After placing the shoes leave off the adjuster lever spring. The push rod
> should be installed with the front chamfer facing the backing plate and on
> the rear fork, the longer tang goes against the shoe. The shorter tang goes
> in front of the lever. Adjust the push rod to take up the slack but do not
> actually push out the shoes. Now notice how the hand brake can swing. Pull
> forward and connect the brake cable. There should be about 1/16" between the
> lever and the pushrod. Adjust the cable to give this on both sides.  If the
> cables appear to be binding or the outer jackets are collapsed or distorted
> the cables need to be replaced.
> 
> After this is sorted install the drums and make sure they are fully seated.
> If needed bleed the brakes. Pumping the pedal will work the adjusters and if
> there is any slack you should hear them click as they turn one notch with
> each pedal push. Oh , and you want cylinders that have the inner springs to
> prevent the pistons from retracting. This was recently a big discussion
> here. ATE!
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis