http://www.vanagonparts.com/images/tech/brakes_rear.gif

Chris.

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Dnia Mar 20, 2012 o godz. 19:35 Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> napisał(a):

> That only works if the last person put it together right. I regularly see
> the top springs upside down or sides swapped preventing the adjusters from
> turning freely.
> Also, while doing the brakes check the archives for my instructions
> lubricating the rear bearings.
> 
> Dennis
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Scott Daniel - Turbovans
> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Rear Brake set up-The spacers
> 
> One additional thing I would add...
> always do only one side at a time !!
> 
> that way ...you can go look at the other side when you wonder which way
> something fits.
> 
> scott
> turbovans
> 
> On 3/20/2012 6:36 AM, Finn Runyon wrote:
>> Dear Dennis,
>> As always, immensely helpful.  Can't thank you enough!  Looks like we
>> will be heading to the Grand Canyon at the end of the week after all.
>> Best, Finn On Mar 19, 2012, at 7:09 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>> 
>>> VW did not always use self-adjusting drum brakes. On the
>>> non-self-adjusting versions  the lower shoe rests were the adjusters.
>>> There was a star wheel,
>>> (nut) (113609205) and the slotted post (pin) (211609279) and two
>>> holes in the backing plate that allowed you to reach in with a
>>> screwdriver to make adjustments. This was regular maintenance. So as
>>> the shoes wore the bottoms were adjusted out to compensate so with
>>> regular care the entire shoe was worn and the entire friction surface
>>> was used.  Most American cars with self-adjusting brakes use various
>>> methods to work the same way. VW decided to go the way of placing the
>>> adjusting mechanism as the same end as the cylinders. It should be
>>> noted that most air brake drum set ups on trucks work the same way,
> (slack adjusters).
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Now this works well if everything is the proper dimensions,
>>> especially the match between drum diameter and shoe thickness. A
>>> problem is that I have yet to find replacement brake shoes that have
>>> the proper pad thickness or a satisfactory material. For years I went
>>> to the dealer and got the OEM shoe sets but they are no longer
>>> available. The original shoe linings were riveted, metallic, high
>>> friction linings with a thickness of 6mm. The aftermarket shoes are
>>> only 4mm and the linings are soft. It is also common for some shoes
>>> to have the linings reversed (leading-trailing) or on the shoe in the
>>> wrong place. Shimming the bottom compensates for the thinner linings.
>>> This can also compensate for worn drums. The nuts and pins I
>>> mentioned above will fit perfectly on the Vanagon if you want to add
>>> adjustability. Since there are no detent springs to keep them from
>>> turning I do not know if that could be a problem so I use shims. 2-3mm on
> each shoes is a very good starting point.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> As these are self-adjusting brakes, I do not do any fine adjustment
>>> before placing the drums. I want to know the self-adjusters work.  I
>>> want to hear them click!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have posted in the past instructions for installing and setting up
>>> the rear brakes. There are a few details that are critical.
>>> 
>>> The top springs have to be in the correct position, center hooks face up.
>>> Otherwise they will hit the adjuster nut.
>>> 
>>> The pushrod thread has to be able to turn freely. No grease or
>>> anti-seize. A dry lube like lock-ease.
>>> 
>>> The handbrake cable needs to be properly adjusted. This cannot be
>>> done with the drum in place. You need to see the lever.
>>> 
>>> After placing the shoes leave off the adjuster lever spring. The push
>>> rod should be installed with the front chamfer facing the backing
>>> plate and on the rear fork, the longer tang goes against the shoe.
>>> The shorter tang goes in front of the lever. Adjust the push rod to
>>> take up the slack but do not actually push out the shoes. Now notice
>>> how the hand brake can swing. Pull forward and connect the brake
>>> cable. There should be about 1/16" between the lever and the pushrod.
>>> Adjust the cable to give this on both sides.  If the cables appear to
>>> be binding or the outer jackets are collapsed or distorted the cables
> need to be replaced.
>>> 
>>> After this is sorted install the drums and make sure they are fully
> seated.
>>> If needed bleed the brakes. Pumping the pedal will work the adjusters
>>> and if there is any slack you should hear them click as they turn one
>>> notch with each pedal push. Oh , and you want cylinders that have the
>>> inner springs to prevent the pistons from retracting. This was
>>> recently a big discussion here. ATE!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I hope this helps.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dennis