hi ...
Re pressure testing the cap ..
have you made an adapter gizmo to be able to do that ..
or found one to buy somewhere.

so far..I have not found a way to pressure test those caps..
Perhaps Stant or somebody has an adapter ...I just haven't found one yet.
got a link ?

additionally ...if you look in the waterboxer cooling system section of
Bentley ..
they show testing a pressure cap ..
except ..it's a Diesel Vanagon style very conventional cap.
They even tell the part # of an adapter..
when you look that up ..it's for the Diesel Vanagon style cap, and I
have that adapter since way back.
  and I don't trust those blue caps..
and always carry a spare ..and a spare pressure bottle on trips out of
town.

so ..testing the blue pressure cap .......??  anyone.
thanks.

On 4/6/2012 1:03 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> It is a common problem for the main pressure tank to crack along with the
> cap and/or sensor. Regular maintenance should include pressure testing the
> system especially the cap. The tank can turn color as it ages. I sue this as
> a sign that it is time for replacement.
>
> As for turn signals-flashers there are no relays in the back. There is a
> "flasher" on the fuse-relay box and the wiring is a bit complicated. If both
> sides are out look for a blown fuse or a harness somewhere might be
> disconnected. Try cycling the emergency flasher switch as this can prevent
> the turn signals from working.
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Karen Doherty
> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2012 11:12 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: '86 Westy coolant questions
>
> Dennis, thank you, I am printing that out! I know I do need to know more
> than I do, this is a good lesson learned and hopefully it will turn out not
> to be a super-expensive lesson! I really appreciate your taking the time to
> help me to learn!! Not taken wrong way at all. I am a sponge and WANT to
> understand. ;-)
>
> Here is an update on the situation;
>
> I took it in to the guy in town; Andy at Spring St Auto in Oxford OH. Fans
> are working. They did a pressure test and he said they "finally got it to
> reveal a leak" around the rear reservoir. He suggests I replace the rear
> tank, sensor and cap, and that he doesn't know if that's gonna fix it.
> MEANWHILE, I drive it off the lot there and realize my blinkers are not
> working, nor are emergency flashers. I return, they do some checking,
> determining the fuses are good and there is power to the fuses. He kinda
> shrugged, said it might be a relay, and that "there's a first time for
> everything to break"...my sense was that he is not gonna own this. Another
> friend of mine tells me there is a wire to a relay near the rear that they
> might have jiggled loose. The mechanic sent me on my way without blinkers
> working or doing anything more and said he'd see about ordering the coolant
> part. He called this morning to say he can get it, and do I want to go ahead
> and have him order it?. (coolant reservoir tank, sensor, cap.)
>
> Another on this list (Thanks Roger!!) recommended a mechanic in Cincinnati,
> an hour from here. I called them, and they are skeptical about the first
> diagnosis by Andy. I asked if it was safe to drive to Cincy, and he said
> well...pull over right away if it starts to overheat. Now, I did drive it a
> good 15-20 miles home after the one and only overheat that was in stop&go
> highway traffic...and it was fine. So my inclination is to start towards
> Cincy. I do have AAA.
>
> Also, not knowing any better, I put straight coolant into the reservoir. Is
> that going to really mess things up? Not sure what they did at Spring St
> Auto when doing pressure test, i will ask them if they filled the tanks and
> with what.
>
> RE: Dennis suggestion about fan not working...I have been noticing a little
> electrical oddity in that one time recently the buzzer for the seat belt
> went off. Just once! It surprised me as I did not know there was one. And
> sometimes when I open the passenger door, the inside light on driver's side
> comes on (yay!) but sometimes not. It's 50/50. So maybe maybe there is a
> short somewhere and this one time in traffic the fan did not come on. I will
> bring all this to Vogt Auto in Cncy.
>
>
> Again thanks and a deep bow of appreciation to y'all!
>
>
> Karen Doherty
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 8:11 PM, Dennis Haynes
> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Karen,
>> Welcome to the list. Please don't take this the wrong way but one of
>> the most important parts of operating a vehicle, especially an older
>> one is knowing how things should work and what should be happening and
>> when. I'm not saying that you need to be a mechanic but you should be
>> familiar with how the vehicle support systems, (cooling, lubrication,
>> charging, etc.) as you are with braking and steering.
>>
>> Since everything was well until you were stuck in traffic the most
>> likely problem is lack of cooling at low vehicle speeds. The Vanagon
>> relies on air flow over the radiator while the vehicle travels down
>> the road. At low speeds or when idling there is an electric radiator
>> fan that turns on to provide the needed air flow when the vehicle is
>> not moving fast enough. You can hear this turn on. It has two speeds
>> in case the low speed cannot do the job. This fan is also used for the
>> air conditioner if you have it. If the fan is needed and does not work
>> at some point the pressure will build up in the cooling system and
>> cause the coolant to blow out through the pressure relief. At this
>> point you can start doing some engine damage.
>>
>> There are two main causes of the cooling fan not working. The usual
>> one is electrical. The fan switch is located on the radiator, lower
>> grill drivers side. The switch could be bad, a fuse blown, or any
>> number of other things including even a bad fan motor. This is very
>> rare though. Any shop should be able to locate the switch, un plug it,
>> and jump the connector and test that both fan speeds work. There is
>> also a fan resistor that will prevent the fan from working at low
>> speed.
>>
>> The other cause can be much more complicated. I am referring to
>> coolant flow. There are a number of problems that can prevent the
>> proper flow of coolant to the radiator. Clogs, bad thermostat,
>> air/combustion gasses in the cooling system, low coolant level, etc.
>> If the hot coolant does not flow to and through the radiator the fan
>> switch will not sense the coolant to turn on the fan further
>> compounding the problem.
>>
>> As for checking-adding coolant, there are two reservoirs, the main
>> coolant (pressure tank) and the recovery tank.  The main tank is the
>> one inside the engine compartment to the left rear. This is the
>> important tank. The cap on top is the pressure control/release for the
>> system. Any time there is a significant loss of coolant this is the
>> tank that needs to be filled. The engine should be cold while filling
>> and running to pump the coolant through the system. Depending on the
> amount lost the system may also need to bled.
>> The recovery tank, (behind the license plate), captures coolant from
>> expansion and returns it to the main tank when the engine cools. This
>> help to get all air out of the system and when things are working
>> right the main tank will be completely filled. It is important the
>> proper 50/50 mix of coolant is used.
>>
>> Now to the gauge and warning lights. Every time you go to start the
>> engine you want to check that the warning lights work. Key on, engine
>> off, you should see the oil pressure, alternator, and the temp-low coolant
> light.
>> The
>> coolant light should go out after a short time delay. The oil pressure
>> and alternator lights should go out shortly after the engine starts.
>> Sometimes the engine may need to be reved slightly to get the
>> alternator light to turn off.
>>
>> If the alternator light should turn on while driving you need to stop
>> as soon as safe. It may just be an electrical issue or something
>> mechanical suach as the belt has failed. This belt also drives the
>> coolant pump. If the pump stops turning the coolant will stop flowing.
>> DO NOT think that you are ok to drive until the temperature gage
>> rises. The temp sensor relies on the coolant flowing past it. No
>> coolant flow, no reading until such time that the coolant is hot
>> enough to make steam and nasty things then happen. For the coolant
>> warning light this is activated for both low coolant and over
>> temperature. If just the light comes on, you've lost coolant. Again
>> you need to find out why as enough coolant loss will stop the gauge
>> from indicating the over temp that will soon follow. Both a high gauge
>> and warning light means you are overheating. There are some situations
>> where this can be expected but you need to address it.
>>
>> The oil pressure warning light along with a buzzer have a number of
>> warning conditions. You can check the archives. I think I confused you
>> enough with the coolant. Hopefully I was able to help.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of Karen Doherty
>> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:04 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: '86 Westy coolant questions
>>
>> Hi all, I'm new to the list but so happy to find y'all!
>>
>> I've had my Westy almost a year. Two days ago, in start/stop traffic
>> on the highway in 80 degree temp, the temp needle rose and eventually
>> the red light came on. I pulled over, and saw the reservoir coolant
>> level way low.
>> Added coolant. Made it home another 15 miles no problem. Next morning
>> I check the reservoir, almost empty again.
>>
>> I am in southwestern Ohio, but returning home to Maine on April 14th,
>> with two cats who, shall we say, dislike travel. So...time is of the
>> essence, but so is a worry-free trip.
>>
>> I took it to the one recommended mechanic in town, who used to own an
>> '87 Syncro. He seemed less than excited about working on it, and went
>> on about how difficult they are to work on and that's why he sold his
>> blah blah blah but yeah go ahead and bring it in I'll take a look.
>>
>> My problem is...I am not at all mechanically minded, not do I know how
>> much this should cost.
>>
>> I don't know how to find another mechanic, and this place has a "good
>> reputation but also a reputation for being expensive".
>>
>> Any thoughts on this would be most welcome and appreciated! Some have
>> suggested bubble of air in the system. I have no idea how much this
>> repair should cost.
>>
>> Karen
>>
>>