

| Subject: | Re: Trip Report, Baja Whales 2012,part 3, no mas.... |
| From: | Tom Buese |
| Date: | Tue, 3 Apr 2012 14:43:22 -0400 |
I am sad that the final installment has arrived & been absorbed & there will not be another 1 til next year. Great report, Mark, & nice pics by James! Thanks for taking the time to lead the trip & write it up so eloquently. Seems like more time to smell the roses would definitely be in order-at least for moi. Hope to make the trip w/ you sometime. Regards, Tom-so many trips, so little time On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 6:53 PM, mark drillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote: > After the the spell of the fabulous sunrise had waned it was time to > take the tandem kayak down and go for a paddle. Rich and I headed out > into the shallow cove formed by the sand spit and then we went around > the backside of the island that the spit connects with unless the tide > is high. We mostly paddled along the outer edge of a dense kelp that > clung thick in the shallows, spotting some tropical fish and a few > skates as well. In the deeper water on the back side of the island we > saw darker fish and a few fleeting shadows of larger ones. We came > almost full circle around the island and then carried the kayak over a > narrow part of the spit to rejoin our little cove. We parked the kayak > low on the beach to encourage others in the group to have a go, which > everyone eventually did. > > Relaxing under the palapa we read and chatted and just watched the show. > A van pulled up behind us and a blanket vendor hopped out and opened his > slider to display his wares. We shook our heads and said no but that > made no difference to him. He spoke english pretty well and had a > polished banter that would have served him well at many sales jobs in > the US. His stuff looked better than I expected and he dug out colors > and patterns to match what he could see of our vans. I was slightly > surprised that no one bought anything and he finally left while > promising to return in half an hour. A little while later another car > pulled up and a vendor with different merchandise gave us a try. This > time a sale was made. Happily, that was the end of it other than the > first guy driving by again later and saying something I didn't catch. > > Near lunch time a newish VW Jetta with Mexican plates slowly cruised by > and down to the end of the beach, clearly looking to camp but finding no > available palapas. As they were coming back by to leave I stepped out to > see what was what. Seeing just a young Mexican couple and with no music > blaring from their car I used my crude spanish to offer them one of our > two palapas since we really were only making much use of one. I moved my > van way around to the other side of our camp and the young couple > settled right in to the end palapa where I had been. They had a lot of > gear in that car and spent some time setting up a tent and arranging > things just so, speaking little to each other. > > I'm not sure where all the day went but I had a nice long siesta that > helps explain that. The Mexican couple walked back from somewhere > carrying swim fins and some scallops they had caught for their dinner. > Our Kyong showed off a nice bucket of fresh clams, having tested the > waters the day before and found them to her liking enough to gather even > more this time. Rich set up his shower again and I had one, happy to > rinse off the sand and salt of the last couple days. We all sat around > the fire once more, with everyone sharing details of their lives and > relationships as the night got slowly dark. > > In the morning we packed up and got our usual early start, needing to do > so in order to make our next intended camp with plenty of daylight. We > stopped outside of Mulege for gas and then swung into the town for some > baked goods and to change some money. A couple hours later we had > navigated up the steep hills to the plateau of San Ignacio and I led the > pack into a semi-famous RV park/cafe/bar/motel called Rice and Beans > Oasis. The place was pretty dead since it was mid-morning and I dickered > with the bartender for 5 hot showers, getting him to cut his first price > by almost half. It cheered him up slightly when I asked whether the > kitchen would be open for any of us to have an early lunch after > showering. It would be and so we did. It all took a while and afterward > I talked to the group about the schedule. I knew there wasn't really > enough time to make it out to the nice camping beach at Punta La Gringa. > > Freshened up by the long hot showers and decent food, we hit the road > again and immediately came to the notoriously slow army checkpoint just > at the north edge of town. There was a small line of cars ahead of us > and nothing was happening in any hurry. When my turn came they all but > waved me through without a word and then spent a lot of time on the rest > of our party. Determined to make up some time, we drove the next several > hours without any stops until just past the Guerrero Negro turn-off when > the vast swaths of purple flowers coloring the normally dismal desert > there made me stop. We got a few photos and stretched our legs before > continuing. Another gas stop and another checkpoint stop before we > finally arrived at the turnoff for Bahia De Los Angeles. I pulled over a > couple miles later to talk again about the schedule. There simply wasn't > enough time to make it to the beach camp much before dark and since we > needed to get back on the road early the next day there wasn't going to > be time to enjoy the place. We could either turn back now and continue > north or stay on the road to the bay long enough to see the spectacular > views of it from the overlook before finding a place to camp near the > road. A show of hands decided it, a look at the Bay of Angels was on. > > About a half hour later the great bay came into view and we pulled over > into the view point area to get a good look. I was happy to see that the > lighting was very favorable and we spent some time getting photos of the > pretty islands in the distance. This bay is one of my favorite Baja > camping places and I have been out to all the islands in my inflatable > boats. It has been designated a National Marine Park of Mexico and a big > marina development project was stopped, in part due to international > environmental protests. > > We drove the short remaining distance to the edge of town to fill our > gas tanks and then turned back the way we came, watching along the way > for a place to pull off and rough camp in the desert. We found one most > of the way back to the main highway and we settled in as darkness fell. > A million stars came out but we went into our vans calling it an early > night after dinner. The night was very quiet and before dawn I awoke > with the sense that fog had rolled in or something like that. It was > misty out and everything was very wet. I went for a walk and tried to > get a good photo of our impromptu camp as it got light out. Enough stuff > was sticking to my shoes to make me believe it had rained during the night. > > We struck out early once more, this time for the border and then home. > On the main road we encountered a truck accident at a bad curve and then > another and another. I guess it really had rained during the night, at > least enough to cause trouble. The sky looked like more was coming and > as we neared Ensenada it did. We stopped there to get our last tanks of > $3 gas and then high winds kicked up as water fell from the sky in > buckets. At one of the last toll booth stations we stopped to use the > restrooms and say our goodbyes as the border was not far ahead. But when > we got off the toll road and headed along the border fence for the main > crossing the access streets ahead were too flooded and being blocked by > a police car. We were diverted into Tijuana, to somehow try and find our > way in the flooded streets there. We tried a few streets and made some > u-turns when we couldn't tell how deep the water was. Finally we wound > around and found ourselves in line to cross, a few blocks from the > bridge that leads to the border guard lanes. The lines of cars simply > didn't move. Something was wrong. I finally got out and spoke to the > others, saying I was going to get out of line and go to the other main > crossing point inland a few miles. Everyone wanted to stay with me so > off we went to find our way again in the streets of TJ. Somehow we did > it, everyone staying together as I twisted and turned following a few > signs and my memory from some years before. We got into a line where we > could see the border guards ahead and it moved steadily. We got through > one by one and waited ahead on the US side for the last van, only to > hear by radio that they were headed for secondary inspection so we all > went our separate ways. > > It was a fine trip and ended too soon. I am planning to do it again next > March, maybe for a few more days or even an extra week. Thanks to all > who made the trip into a fond memory of friendly times. Special thanks > to James V for his talented use of his camera to help chronicle our > adventures. > > https://picasaweb.google.com/**chimivee/BajaMarch2012#** > 5721782974679929938<https://picasaweb.google.com/chimivee/BajaMarch2012#5721782974679929938> > > > Mark > -- Tom Buese
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