

| Subject: | Re: removing studs from new heads |
| From: | pickle vanagon |
| Date: | Mon, 30 Apr 2012 20:22:38 -0400 |
I've used stainless nuts and bolts on my exhaust for years and have found it makes things 100% easier. I haven't had problems with galling and am not sure its really possible to have problems with galling if you use a good nickel based anti-seize. In the meantime, I've watched the non-stainless studs corrode to the point where some can barely hold a nut (yes they are quite old). Unlike the nuts and bolts, the studs aren't a disposable fastener. I figure this makes it especially crucial to have them be long lasting I guess an alternative would be some sort of "grease cap" for the studs, although I've never seen anything like that. On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 8:11 PM, Mike S <mikes@flatsurface.com> wrote: > On 4/30/2012 6:19 PM, pickle vanagon wrote: > >> (I actually am thinking that even if I wanted to keep the studs, I'd >> prefer >> to have stainless studs in which case I'd be removing these studs >> anyways.) >> > > Why? In my experience, although SS exhausts are great, SS hardware > anywhere near an exhaust is asking for trouble. You won't be able to get > as much clamping force as with steel, given the same size stud. > It tends to gall and lock up tight when torqued, and then you've ruined > both the nut and the stud, and have a bigger problem than just removing a > nut. > > The best studs I've run into were on the cat flange of an older Toyota > Previa - some sort of hardened steel. After 150K, the nuts were corroded to > where they weren't even hex shaped (removed with a Dremel cutoff wheel and > cold chisel), but the studs were in perfect shape, no corrosion at all. I'd > like to know what they were made of. > > IMO, just get some copper nuts to use with the steel studs if you're > concerned with future ease of removal. >
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